Toyota Land Cruiser Frequently Asked Questions List TLC FAQ v2.0 LAST MODIFICATION 3/15/98 Edited by Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) Information shamelessly pilfered from: Against All Odds: The Story of the Toyota Motor Corporation and the Family that Created it by Yukiyasu Togo & William Wartman; New York, USA : St. Martin's Press, 1999 ISBN 0-312-09733-6 Das Grosse Toyota LandCruiser Buch by Martin Braun, Thomas Ronnberg; Munich, Germany : AC Verlag, 1993. ISBN 3-86087-140-4 Downey Off Road Manufacturing Catalog Specter Off Road Catalog TLC Engine Conversion Kit Instruction Manual (Advance Adapters) Toyota Land Cruiser: 1956-1984 Compiled by R.M. Clark; Surrey, England : Brooklands Books Distribution Ltd. ISBN 1-85520-0473 Toyota Parts Microfiche Toyota Trails (TLCA Newsletter) Toyota Truck & LC Owner's Bible by Moses Ludel; Cambridge : Robert Bently, Inc., 1995 ISBN 0-8376-0159-2 Toyota USA and Japan Service Bulletins Toyota: A History of the First 50 Years by Toyota Jid&oring, sha Kabushiki Kaisha; Toyota City, Japan : Toyota Motor Corporation, 1988. Toyota, Fifty Years in Motion: An Autobiography by Eiji Toyoda, Tokyo; New York : Kodansha International, 1987. Toyota Repair manuals Various 4x4 Magazines Contributors (Although they may not have realized at the time :) Rory Arms, Paul Bech, Gary Bjork, Drew Eckhardt, Lars Gottberg, Neil Kapperman, Steve Kopito, Kerry Manning, Willem-Jan Markerink, Andrew Murphy, Park Owens, Marv Spector, Ian Staines, Roy Stockman, Toyota Canada Inc. For the Land Cruiser WWW page, check out: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/tlc/tlc.html TABLE OF CONTENTS ================= 1.0 Disclaimer 2.0 The History of Toyota 3.0 Introduction 4.0 Body Styles 4.1 Availability (Model Year) 4.2 Specifications 4.3 Stock Curb Weights (lbs) 5.0 Engines 5.1 Gas Engines 5.2 Diesel Engines 5.3 Other Engine Suppliers 5.4 Engine Specifications 5.5 Availability (Model Year) 6.0 Engine/Chassis Combinations (Production Year) 6.1 Selected Country Engine/Chassis Sales Figures (Model Year) 7.0 Performance/Fuel Economy 8.0 Transmissions & Transfer Cases 8.1 Transmission & Transfer Case Ratios (All :1) 9.0 Axles 9.1 Axle Codes 10.0 Production Codes 11.0 Body Colour Codes 12.0 Decoding Your ID Plates 13.0 40 Series Specific Info 13.1 Production Timeline (US/Canada) 13.2 More 40 Production Info 14.0 55 Series Specific Info 14.1 Production Timeline (US/Canada) 14.2 More 55 Production Info 15.0 60 Series Specific Info 15.1 Production Info 16.0 80 Series Specific Info 16.1 Full Time 4WD 16.2 Locking Differentials 17.0 Buying/Inspecting a Land Cruiser 17.1 Engine 17.1.1 Diesel Engine 17.1.2 Gas Engine 17.2 Cooling System 17.3 Electrical 17.4 Transmission/Transfer 17.5 Driveshafts 17.6 Rear Axle 17.7 Front Axle 17.8 Steering 17.9 Brakes 17.10 Suspension 17.11 Body 17.12 Frame 17.13 Inspection Checklist 18.0 Drivetrain Swaps 18.1 Non-Toyota Equipment 18.2 Diesel Engine Swaps 18.2.1 Isuzu Engine Specs 18.2.2 Cummins Engine Specs 18.2.3 GM Diesel Engine 18.2.3.1 GM Engine Specs 18.2.3.2 GM Diesel Swap Specifics 18.2.4 Nissan Diesel Specs 18.3 Gas Engine Conversions 18.3.1 GM Engine Specs 18.3.2 Ford Engine Specs 18.4 Transmission Swaps 18.5 Transfer Case/Axle Swaps 19.0 Maintenance and Modifications 19.1 Aluminum Tubs - Rob Mullen 19.2 Breather Relocation - Rob Mullen 19.3 G.M. HEI distributors for F/2F Motors - David Dannenberg 19.4 Glow Plugs - Rob Mullen 19.5 Owner's Manual Maintenance Schedules - Toyota 19.5.1 Gas Powered Vehicles (2F-1983) 19.5.2 Diesel Powered Vehicles (B-1978) 19.5.3 Diesel Powered Vehicles (3B-1983) 19.6 Ride Harshness - Rob Mullen 19.7 Saginaw Power Steering Conversion - Park Owens 19.8 Shackle Reversals - Rob Mullen 19.9 Silicon Clutch Diagnosis - John Barron 19.10 Steering Wandering - Rob Mullen 19.11 Spring Over Conversions - John Barron 19.12 Transmission and Transfer Removal Tips - Rob Mullen 19.13 V8J40 Cooling Tips - Fred Welland 19.14 Which Wheels Work? - Rob Mullen 20.0 Land Cruiser Clubs 20.1 North America 20.2 Australia 20.3 Netherlands 21.0 Parts Suppliers 21.1 North America 21.2 Australia 1.0 Disclaimer ============== Well, here goes. I've decided to bite the bullet and try to set up the framework of a Land Cruiser FAQ. I do not claim to be a Land Cruiser expert-- all I am attempting to do is collect the knowledge that the experts on the list have posted over time into one source. I welcome any suggestions, corrections, or additions to this FAQ. I also welcome "articles" about various projects (disc conversions/tranny swaps etc.) Your name will appear alongside your article. The information in this FAQ is to be used AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am not responsible for any death/dismemberment/grief/increase of libido that any errors or misinformation cause you! Also please note: There are NO spelling mistakes in this document. Anything that looks wrong to you is actually just a Canadian spelling ;). Hopefully, with release v2.0, there will be a change in whe way the FAQ is updated. In the past, I have been guilty of hanging onto each version of the FAQ for a long time before releasing it, because I want the information contained in it to be "perfect." The rule of thumb I've been using is when the FAQ doubles in size compared to the previous version, it's time to let go. From v2.0 on, the updates will be more frequent. Unfortunately, this also increases the chances of mistakes being made. I have decided that I have put too much work into this thing to leave it as "quasi-public domain" Although I can't claim copyright on say, the 1st gear ratio of an H42 transmission, this COLLECTION of information is my intellectual property as is the what I believe to be unique tabular lay-out of the information. In any case, you are free to use this information for non-commerical purposes and distribute PROVIDED: You do not modify it in any way, you distribute it in complete form (including this disclaimer), and you do not charge any kind of a fee for its distribution. 2.0 The History of Toyota ========================= NOTE: This section is responsible for most of the delay in getting this version of the FAQ out for two reasons. First off, there is some very interesting research I was hoping to include, but it didn't come together the way I'd hoped. The other reason is that some of the information is not as well referenced as it should be (I only have secondary references for the Jeep stuff) If you feel that I've somehow slighted you by missing a reference, don't worry, I'm working on them. You can speed things up by dropping me a line. On with the show... Trucks played a pivotal role in the history of the Toyota Motor Company. In most cases, the Land Cruiser was the vehicle that carried the Toyota banner into new markets. However, a complete history of Toyota requires a look at the man whos company provided the capital and inital production facilities necessary for the founding of the Toyota Motor Company. Sakichi Toyoda was born in 1867 in Yamaguchi, Japan. He had dedicated his life to the invention of an automatic textile loom. In 1907, he formed Toyoda's Loom works, a company that by 1930 had grown into the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works (TALW). Although he shared the inventiveness of his father, Kiichiro Toyoda did not share the fascination with looms. Instead Kiichiro dreamed of building automobiles. In March 1930, he began to build a prototype engine in a corner of the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works factory. By January 29, 1934, Kiichiro had made enough progress with his engine design that TALW established an Automobile Department. The first engine, a 3.4l I6 dubbed the Type A was completed in September 1934. The first complete automobile prototype, the Model A1 was completed in May 1935. Due to restrictions on the domestic automobile industry, Kiichiro decided that would be better to focus on the production of trucks. As a result, the first prototype Toyota truck, the Model G1 was completed on August 25, 1935. In July 1936, it was decided that the cars produced by TALW would be marketed under the name "Toyota." The name was chosen because it sounded better than Toyoda, the katakana characters used to represent it were more asthetically pleasing and consisted of eight strokes, a lucky number, and because the character was similar to the one representing growth. The Toyota Motor Co., Ltd. (TMC) was formed on August 28, 1937. The Koromo Plant was officially opened in November of 1938. This plant would later become known as the Honsha Plant--the site of LandCruiser Production. The first vehicle produced at the new factory was the Model BM truck. A version of the 75hp engine used in this vehicle was to become the first engine in a Land Cruiser. In 1941, the Japanese government instructed Toyota to produce a small, easily manoueverable truck that could be used in the expansion of their Pacific empire. In response, Toyota delivered prototypes of the 2-ton AK-10 in 1942. Unfortunately, it proved too cumbersome so production of light transport trucks was left to Nissan. No examples or photographs of the AK-10 vehicle exist. The only evidence of the AK-10 is a rough sketch. The truck featured an upright front grille, flat fenders that angled down and back like the FJ40, and headlights that mounted above the fenders on either side of the radiator. It had a folding windshield, and the cowl comes straight down to the floor. The rear tub does not exist as such, instead, there is more of a stake-sided bed. The spare tire stands vertically on the inside of the back wall of the bed on the driver's side. The pumpkins have the familiar offset and look to be similar in design to the Land Cruiser 9.5" and have a 6 wheel-stud pattern. Most of the driveline of the truck was from the model BM truck. The AK-10 arrived 1 year after the initial MA1 General Purpose was delivered to the U.S. Military by Willys-Overland. The first shipment of MB "Jeeps" didn't arrive in the Pacific until 1943. As a result, it was highly unlikely that Toyota had seen a Jeep, never mind copied one. The Land Rover Series I did not arrive on the scene until 1949 so any influence on the precursor to the Land Cruiser is impossible. TMC struggled throughout World War II. It was conscripted into making aircraft engines and tried to continue producing trucks with what little raw materials were available. After Japan's surrender in 1945, Toyota was allowed to begin production of trucks to aid in the rebuilding of Japan. By 1947, production had begun on the Model BM truck and the Model SB small truck. In 1950, the U.S. military filed a special procurement order for 1000 4wd vehicles to be used in the Korean War. Unfortunately, at this time, I am unfamiliar with what the exact terms of the procurement order were. However, here are the requirements that led to the Willys-Overland MA1: 1. It must have a load capacity of 600 pounds 2. The wheelbase must be under 75 inches 3. The height must be under 36 inches 4. The engine must run smoothly from three to fifty miles per hour 5. It must have a rectangular shaped body 6. It must have a two speed transfer case with four wheel drive 7. It must have a windshield that folds down 8. It must include three bucket seats 9. It must have blackout and driving lights 10. Gross vehicle weight must be under 1200 pounds (Conley 1981, 20) Toyota responded with a prototype of the Model BJ on August 1, 1951. Its characteristics were as follows: 1. Load capacity? Unknown 2. 94" wheelbase 3. Height? Unknown 4. Engine runs smoothly from three to fifty miles per hour 5. Rectangular shaped body 6. Single speed transfer-case 7. Folding windshield 8. 2 bucket seets and rear bench 9. No blackout lights 10. Gross vehicle weight of ~3000lbs. There is very little correlation, considering the BJ has been accused by some to be a copy of the Jeep. The specifications are different because a completely different philosophy was employed in the design of the BJ. The Willys had been designed to be as light as possible, using an engine with roots in automobiles. Because of the low torque characteristics of the engine, a two-speed transfer case with extra gear reduction was used to allow passage over rough terrain. The BJ, on the other hand, was created using components from 2 and 4 ton trucks. The torque from the 6-cylinder B-85 engine did not require the extra gear reduction. Instead a 4 speed transmission with a 5.53:1 first gear was employed to get a little more low- end grunt. The vehicle was dubbed the "Toyota Jeep," possibly as a result of the wording of the U.S. Army's procurement order. Fortunately, the right to the "Jeep" name was owned by Willys who forced Toyota to choose another name. On June 24, 1954, the name "Land Cruiser" was chosen. In 1954, the first Land Cruisers were exported to Pakistan. In 1955, 23 Land Cruisers were exported to Saudi Arabia. The vehicles proved to be wildly popular and exports grew steadily. On Feb 21, 1956, the first two Land Cruisers were exported to Venezuela. These were quickly followed exports to Burma, Malaysia, and Puerto Rico. Toyota entered the African market by sending Crowns and Land Cruisers to Ethiopia. Because marketing proved difficult with the large number of languages spoken in Africa, Toyota was forced to adopt the sales technique of driving a sample vehicle all over Africa and dealing direct with potential purchasers. The U.S.A. was somewhat different in that in 1957, it received two Crowns before any Land Cruisers. However, the Crowns were found to perform poorly at the higher speeds of American Interstates. Toyota was forced to halt passenger car importing in 1960, leaving only the Land Cruiser to bear the company's name in the United States. Toyota did not make the same mistake in Australia. The first vehicles sent there were Land Cruisers. They arrived in July 1959, and were marketed by Theiss Sales as commercial vehicles. Toyota began to market the Model DA60 truck, its first powered by a diesel engine, in March 1957. However, brand loyalty was strong in Japan so Toyota was forced to establish links to Hino Motors, a diesel truck manufacturer. Hino would later provide the B and H series diesel engines used in Land Cruisers. In May, 1959, Toyota do Brasil began Land Cruiser assembly in Brazil. This was the first case of knock-down kits being assembled outside Japan. Land Cruiser assembly started in 1963 in Venezuela, 1970 in Indonesia and Pakistan (although Pakistanni production was terminated in 1986), and 1977 in Kenya, and 1982 in Bangladesh. Toyota's first exports to Europe were to Denmark, in 1964. That was quickly followed by exports to Finland, the Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland, Great Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Greece, and finally, Germany. It was not until 1964 that Toyota came to Canada. The first vehicles imported were the Crown, Land Cruiser, and Publica. The Publica proved to be unsuitable for the Canadian climate and was quickly withdrawn; however, by 1971, largely on the strength of Land Cruiser sales, Toyota had become the number one import brand in Canada. Throughout the history of Toyota, it was the Land Cruiser that led the way into new export markets and proved Toyota toughness. 3.0 Introduction ================ Land Cruisers models are identified by an alphanumeric code. The code consists of the engine series designation letter(s) and the frame desgination number separated by a the letter "J." For example a 2 door with short wheel base and a 2F gasoline engine would be a FJ40. There are also auxilliary codes that follow the main model code and give further information about the vehicle. For instance, the code FJ40LV-KCW is the vehicle mentioned above produced between 01/75 and 07/80 with left hand drive, 4 Speed Transmission, Hardtop, Rear "ambulance" doors, and no roll bar produced for the European market. The extra codes are necessary because of the huge number of variations of each vehicle offered world-wide. There were 2500 versions of the 60 series alone. All the North American & most Australian Codes are described later in the FAQ. The only exception to the naming convention is the 1951 BJ. 4.0 Body Styles =============== All Land Cruiser bodies (Except the Bundera and the 45 Wagon) are made by Araco (Formerly Arakawa), a division of Toyota. Araco also manufactures the interiors for Land Cruisers, Lexuses, and other Toyota cars and trucks. Toyota manufactures the Bundera/LandCruiser II, and Gifu Body manufactured the 45 Wagon. The remainder of the vehicle (except in some cases the engines) is manufactured at Toyota's Honsya plant (Factory code A11) SERIES DESCRIPTION AK-10 Predecessor to the Land Cruiser BJ Very First Land Cruiser! Flat fenders, round rear wheel wells, (B-85) vertical front grille 25 Looks more like 40 series except with no turn signals on the fenders round rear wheel wells and no headlight bezel 25 P Pickup version of above 28 Similar to above with a longer wheelbase 28 V Wagon version of above 35 Very similar to a 25 38 Wagon 40 2 Door with removable hard/soft top, folding windshield 41 Same as above 42 Essentially identical to 40 series 43 V Slightly Longer 40. 43 W 2 Door version of the 45 Wagon 44 2 Door even longer wheelbase 40 (40 sized side windows followed by smaller ones 45 C Cab & Chassis L Pick-up with square bed with tie-down loops on sides, removable hard/soft top S Pick-up with rounded bed with bevel on top rim like a 40. Had fixed hardtop until approx 1964 then removable hardtop W 4 door 40 series, permanent top. T VERY long 2 door 40 with 2 sets of 40 style side windows on HT 46 Same as 45T except with 5 speed transmission & upgraded frame 47 V VERY long 2 door with 2 sets of 40 style side windows on HT 47 L Identical to 45 Series except with H series engine 47 C Cab & Chassis 50 Brazillian made Bandierante soft top similar to 40 50 V Bandierante hard top similar to 40 50 VB Bandierante similar to 43 55 P2BL Bardierante extra-cab pickup. Similar to 45 series 55 B Bandierante short bed pickup similar to 45 series 55 BL Bandierante long bed pickup 55 Wagon with narrower appearance than 40 series. Front grille looks like < 60 Square bodied wagon with a pair of round headlights 61 Similar to above except with a turbo 62 Square bodied wagon with 2 pairs of rectangular headlights 70 Square body 2 door with non-removable doors/hard top, sloping windshield and fenders that are a cross of a 40 and a 60. 70 LD Light Duty (Called "Bundera" in Australia) - 70 Series with 2L-T diesel or 22R gas engine, lighter axles used in the pickup (with the 8" ring gear), removable hard/soft top, and coil springs. Bundera means "Rock Wallaby" in an aboriginal language 71 Essentially identical to the 70 series 71 LD Similar to 70 series except with squarer front end and smaller front fenders 73 Like 70 series with 2 doors but longer body/wheelbase. 73 LD Longer wheelbase version of the 70 LD detailed above 74 Similar to 73 except with turbo engine 75 P Square bodied pickup with removable steel top 75 V Square bodied wagon with 2 doors and 2 windows per side in the rear 75 C Cab & Chassis 77 Four-door 70 series wagon 78 Virtually identical to above 80 Current rounded wagon 90 AKA Challenger/Prado/Colorado. NOT really a Land Cruiser, just a re-badged/re-bodied IFS 4Runner. MEGA Copy of a Hummer developed WITH the assistance of AM General. Complete with gear reduction hubs, 4WS, Inboard 4 wheel disc brakes, Torsen LSD's _WITH_LOCKS_, adjustable rear tire pressure 4.1 Availability (Model Year) ----------------------------- SERIES AUS CANADA U.S. JAPAN AK-10 ..... ..... ..... 42-? BJ ..... ..... ..... 51-54 25 ..... NA? 58-59 55-59 28 ..... ..... ..... ..... 35 ..... NA NA 60 40 ??-84 60-84 60-83 60-84 42 81-84 81-84 NA 82-84 43 ..... NA NA ..... 45 L ??-84 63-80% 63-67+ 60-67 S ..... 63-67? 63-67+ ..... W ..... 63?-68 63-67+ ..... 46 ..... NA NA 82-84 47 81-84 NA NA ..... 55 ..... 68-80 68-80 ..... 60 ??-90 80-87 80-87 ..... 61 86-90 NA NA ..... 62 85-90 88-89 88-89 ..... 70 85- 85-87 NA 84-89 LD 85-92 NA NA ..... 73 85-90 NA NA ..... 74 85-90 NA NA 85-89 75 P 85- 90?-# NA NA W 85- NA NA ..... 77 NA NA NA 90-94 78 NA NA NA 93-96 80 90- 92- 90- ..... +Some 67's were rebadged as '68's %Industrial use only 81-89? #Industrial use only 4.2 Specifications ------------------ OVERALL WHEELBASE TRACK SPRINGS SPR LEN* HANG WID# SERIES LENGTH MM IN FR/RR MM FR RR FR RR FR RR BJ 3793 2400 94 1390/1350 LF LF 25 3838 2285 90 1390/1350 LF LF 40 3680 2285 90 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1070 686 970 42 3680 2285 90 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1070 686 970 43 W 3968 2430 96 1404/1400 LF LF 1125 1265 686 970 43 4038 2430 96 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970 45 L 4760 2950 116 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970 W 4630 2650 104 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970 S 4651 2650 104 1404/1400 LF LF 686 970 47 4760 2950 116 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970 50 3930 2285 90 1415/1400 LF LF 50 V 3930 2285 90 1415/1400 LF LF VB 4395 2755 1415/1400 LF LF 55 4637 2700 106 1404/1400 LF LF 1071 1155 686 970 55 2BL 5300 3355 1415/1400 LF LF B 4900 2955 1415/1400 LF LF BL 5300 3355 1415/1400 LF LF 60 4576 2730 108 1485/1470 LF LF 1058 1160 796 1030 62 4576 2730 108 1485/1470 LF LF 1058 1160 796 1030 70 3476 2310 90 1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1156 640 940 LD 3476 2310 90 CO CO 73 4410 2600 1425/1400 LF LF LD 4410 2600 1460/1440 CO CO 75 P 4995 2980 1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1156 640 940 W 4885 2980 1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1282 640 940 77 CO CO 80 4780 2850 112 1595/1600 CO CO MEGA 5090 3395 134 1775/1775 CO CO *SPR LEN (Spring Length) is defined as the distance between the centrelines of the front and rear hangers for a spring. #HANG WID is the lateral distance between spring hangers. 4.3 Stock Curb Weights (lbs) ---------------------------- SERIES ENGINE B 3B 15B-FT F 2F 1FZE 1HD-FT 25 3142 40 HT 3470 3792 40 ST 3265 80 4760 MEGA 6284 5.0 Engines =========== 5.1 Gas Engines --------------- Gas Land Cruiser engines are manufactured by Toyota. The F and 2F engines were also used in Toyota Forklifts. The F engine is supposed to be based on the Chevy 225 I-6 "Cast Iron Wonder" and some of the bottom end along with the water pump and several other components are supposed to be interchangeable. The main differences between the F and the 2F are the 2F's larger bore, the F's 2 compression and 2 oil rings versus the 2F's 2 compression and single oil ring and the fact that the F had two oil paths--through the filter or through the engine compared to the 2F where all oil had to travel through the filter before the engine. 5.2 Diesel Engines ------------------ Most of the diesels are made by Hino industries, a sub-contractor for Toyota. Similar engines were used in Hino heavy trucks which are used in Canada, so the drivetrain of Hino trucks may be adaptable. Hino engines similar to the B and 3B are supposed to be used to run the refrigerator units on some refrigerated semi trailers. Some of the B and 3B diesels are manufactured by Daihatsu and can be identified by the letter "D" on the timing cover. Most diesels in Japan and Canada are 24V and therefore meet NATO military specs. However, Canadian 1985 (85/10) BJ70's and all Canadian BJ60's are 12V. In Europe, all diesels before 1984 and all diesels larger than 4 cylinders after 1984 are 24V except for in the 80 series which uses a 24/12V Series/Parallel switch to allow 24V starting and 12V while running. Australian diesels are all 12V. The B, H, and 2H were also used in Toyota Forklifts, Dyna and Coaster buses. 5.3 Other Engine Suppliers -------------------------- Portugese BJ73's use a VM engine made by the Italian company Stabilimenti Meccanici VM S.p.A. South African HJ75's use an Atlantis Diesel Engine licensed from Perkins. The Brazilian made Bandeirantes used a Mercedes diesel engine. 5.4 Engine Specifications ------------------------- Legend FUEL ID - Indirect Injection Diesel DD - Direct Injection Diesel EID - Electronically Indirect Injection Diesel T - Turbo EFIG - Gas Electronic Fuel Injection DISP TORQUE BORExSTROKE COMP MODEL (CC) CYL FUEL HP@RPM FT-LB@RPM VALVES (mm) (mm) RATIO B (GAS) 3386 6 G 85@3600 159@???? 12 OHV 84x102 6.4:1 B 2977 4 ID 80@3600 141@2200 8 OHV 95x105 21:1 2B 3168 4 ID 93@3600? 159@2200 8 OHV 98x105 21:1 3B 3431 4 ID 90@3500 159@2200 8 OHV 102x105 20:1 13B-T 3431 4 TDD 120@3400 210@2000 8 OHV 102x105 17.6:1 14B 3661 4 DD 96@3400 177@2200 8 OHV 102x112 18.0:1 15B-FT 4104 4 TDD 155@3200 288@1800 16 OHV F (-60) 3878 6 G 105@3200 189@2000 12 OHV 90x102 6.8:1 F (60-) 3878 6 G 125@3600 209@2000 12 OHV 90x102 7.5:1 2F 4230 6 G 135@3600 210@1800 12 OHV 94x102 7.8:1 3F 3955 6 G 155@4000 219@3000 12 OHV 94x95 3F-EFI 3955 6 EFIG 155@4200 220@2200 12 OHV 94x95 8.1:1 1FZ-??? 4477 6 G 138@???? Low compression engine for low grade fuel 1FZ-F 4477 6 G 190@4400 268@2800 24DOHC 100x95 9.0:1 1FZ-FE 4477 6 EFIG 212@4600 275@3000 24DOHC 100x95 9.0:1 H 3576 6 ID 90@3600 151@2200 12 OHV 88x98 21.0:1 H 3576 6 ID 95@3600 159@2200 12 OHV 88x98 19.5:1 2H 3980 6 ID 103@3500 177@2000 12 OHV 91x102 20.7:1 12H-T 3980 6 TDD 135@3500 231@2000 12 OHV 91x102 18.6:1 1HD-T 4163 6 TDD 165@3600 268@2000 12SOHC 94x100 18.6:1 1HD-FT 4163 6 TDD 168@3600 280@2500 24SOHC 94x100 18.6:1 1HZ 4163 6 ID 135@4000 187@2200 12SOHC 94x100 22.7:1 1KZ-T 2982 4 TID 125@3600 218@2000 8 96x103 21.2:1 1KZ-TE 2982 4 EID 130@3600 213@2000 8 96x103 21.2:1 2L 2446 4 ID 72@4000 115@2200 8SOHC 92x92 22.3:1 2L-T 2446 4 TID 86@4000 139@2400 8SOHC 92x92 20.0:1 2L-TII 2446 4 TID 90@4000 159@2400 8SOHC 92x92 21.0:1 1PZ 3469 5 ID 115@4000 170@2600 10SOHC 94x100 22.7:1 22R 2367 4 G 105@4800 136@2800 8SOHC 92x89 9.0:1 22R-E 2367 4 EFIG 114@4600 192@3400 8SOHC 92x89 9.0:1 OTHER STABILIMENTI MECCANICI VM (ITALY) VM66A 2494 5 ID 108@4200 220@1600 10 OHC 88x92 22.0:1 ATLANTIS DIESEL (SOUTH AFRICA) ADE236 3860 DD 80@2800 220@1400 8 OHV 98x127 16.0:1 MERCEDES BENZ (BRAZILIAN BANDEIRANTE) OM314 3784 DD 85@2800 235@1800 8 OHV 97x128 17.0:1 OM364 3972 DD 90@2800 235@1800 8 OHV 98x133 17.3:1 5.5 Availability (Model Year) ----------------------------- SERIES AUS CANADA U.S. JAPAN B 78-80 NA 74-80 2B 80-82 3B 81-90 81-87 NA 81-90 13B-T ??-90 NA NA 84-90 F 58?-74 58?-74 55-74 2F 75-84 75-87 74-87 3F 84-92 NA NA 3F-EFI 88-92 88-92 88-92 1FZ-FE 93- 93- 93- 2H 81-90 85-87 NA 80-90 12H-T 86-90 NA NA 86-90 1HD-T 90-95 NA NA 91- 1HD-FT 95- 1HZ 90- 95-+ NA 91- 2L 81-84 81-83 83-87 2L-T 86-93 84-85* 84-85* 84-87 2L-T-II 1PZ 90-93 ??91-+ 22R 84-92 81-88# 81-88# *In Toyota Diesel Pickups #In Toyota Pickups +Industrial Use Only 6.0 ENGINE/CHASSIS COMBINATIONS (PRODUCTION YEAR) ================================================= B(GAS) F 10 ..... ..... BJ 51-53 ..... 25 54-59 55-59 28 ..... 58-59 V ..... 58-59 35 ..... 56-59 B 2B 3B 13B-T 14B F 2F H 2H 40 74-78 ..... ..... ..... ..... 60-74 74-84 ..... ..... V 74-78 ..... ..... ..... ..... 61-74 74-84 ..... ..... 41 ..... 79-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 42 ..... ..... 81-84 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 43 74-81 ..... 81-84 ..... ..... 60-74 74-84 ..... ..... 44 ..... 79-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... V ..... 80-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 45 C ..... ..... 81-84 ..... ..... 61-74 74-86 72-80 ..... 45 L ..... ..... 81-84 ..... ..... 61-74 74-85 72-80 ..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 61-74 74-85 ..... ..... W ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 60-68 ..... ..... ..... 46 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 47 L ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 80-85 47 C ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 80-84 50 B ..... ..... ..... ..... 96- ..... ..... ..... ..... 55 W ..... 79-80 ..... ..... ..... 67-74 74-79 ..... ..... 56 W ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 74-79 ..... ..... B ..... ..... ..... ..... 96- ..... ..... ..... ..... 3B 13B-T 2F 3F-EFI 2H 12H-T 60 81-89 ..... 80-84 ..... 81-89 ..... 61 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 86-89 62 ..... ..... ..... 85-89 85-89 ..... 3B 13B-T 15B-T 2F 3F-EFI 1FZ-FE 2H 12H-T 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HZ 1PZ 70 84-89 ..... ..... 84-85 85-92 93- ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90- 71 ..... 87-89 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... 93- ... 72 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ... 73 84-89 ..... ..... 84-85 85-93 93- ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90- 74 ..... 87-89 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ... 75 84-89 ..... ..... ..... 85-92 93- 85-89 ..... 90- ...... .... 90- 77 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90- 78 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... 93- ... 80 ..... ..... ..... ..... 90-92 93- ..... ..... 90- 95- 90- ... MEGA ..... ..... 95- ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ... 2L 2L-T 2L-T-II 1KZ-T 1KZ-TE 22R 22R-E 70 LD 84-86 86-90 90- ..... ..... 84-88 88- 71 LD ..... ..... 91-93 ..... ..... 84-88 ... 72 LD ..... 86-90 90-93 ..... ..... ..... ... 73 LD ..... 88-90 90- ..... ..... ..... 88- 77 LD 90-93 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ... 78 LD ..... ..... 91-93 ..... ..... ..... ... 78 LD ..... ..... ..... ..... 93-96 6.1 Selected Country Engine/Chassis Sales Figures (Model Year) CANADA Mod ------------------------------------------------------------ Yr BJ40 BJ42 BJ60 BJ70 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 FJ62 HJ60M HJ60P 76 946 181 77 1204 471 175 78 160 1204 342 260 79 279 130 80 173 173 222 45 30 81 765 451 82 451 791 83 167 614 84 234 716 85 460 388 86 137 305 215 87 139 309 188 88 444 89 120 7.0 Performance/Fuel Economy ============================ 0-100km/h Fuel Ecomomy (l/100km) BJ40 4SPD 4.11 diff 29.9s 13.0 BJ42 4SPD 4.11 diff 24.4s 13.7 FJ40 4SPD 3.70 diff 18.7s 18.6 FJ60 4SPD 3.70 diff 16.3s 17.4 HJ60 4SPD 3.70 diff 22.7s 12.5 MEGA AUTO 25.3MPG@37MPH 8.0 Transmissions & Transfer Cases ================================== The H4X transmissions used with the gas engies use a 275mm clutch and have an output shaft that is 1-1/16" in diameter and has 10 splines. H41 transmissions were never offered on US model Cruisers but may have been available in some Canadian 45 series pickups. The transmissions for B diesels use a 1-1/2" longer input shaft with different splines and will not mate to either an F or H series engine. When the four speed was introduced in 1974, the transfer case ratio was raised and new helical cut gears were used that were wider and quieter than the earlier model. Until 1981, parking brake was mounted on the driveline after the transfer cases. In 1981, the new split-case transfer case was introduced. It featured a stronger idler shaft and the parking brake was moved to become part of the rear drum brakes. 8.1 Transmission & Transfer Case Ratios (All :1) ------------------------------------------------ MODEL ENGINE DATES SPDS 1ST 2ND 3RD 4TH 5TH R TFR LW TFR ?FJ25? F 4 5.41 3.12 1.77 1.000 5.44 NONE SPLINES BJ B 52 4 5.53 3.48 1.71 1.000 5.60 NONE ?B-85? B(GAS) 4 5.299 2.843 1.634 1.000 5.299 J30 F 69-75 3 2.757 1.691 1.000 3.676 2.313 10 H41 F 4 4.925 2.643 1.519 1.000 4.925 1.992 16 H42 F,B 73-75 4 3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 1.992 16 75-80 4 3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 1.959 16 81-89 4 3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 2.276 19 H4?? F,B,H 81- 4 4.843 2.619 1.516 1.000 4.843 1.963 19 H55F F,B,H,HZ 83- 5 4.843 2.619 1.516 1.000 0.845 4.843 1.959 19 NOT USA H5?? B 5 4.925 2.643 1.519 1.000 0.859 4.925 1.992 16 H150F HZ 5 4.529 2.464 1.490 1.000 0.881 4.313 2.488 H151F 3F,FZ,HD 5 4.081 2.294 1.490 1.000 0.881 4.313 2.488 R151F PZ,KZ 90- 4 4.313 2.330 1.436 1.000 4.220 1.963 19 A440F F -90 4 2.950 1.530 1.000 0.717 2.678 2.296 A440F F 90-91 4 2.950 1.530 1.000 0.717 2.678 2.488 A442F FZ,HD 4 2.950 1.530 1.000 0.765 2.678 2.488 A???? 15F-T 4 3.018 1.548 1.000 0.765 2.678 2.488 G40 L,2L,R,1PZ 4 3.928 2.333 1.451 1.00 4.743 21 G52F L, 2L,R 5 3.928 2.333 1.451 1.000 0.851 4.743 2.276 23 150R 2L-T 5 4.313 2.330 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 2.295 ???? 2L-T, 1KZ-T 5 3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 2.296 ???? 1KZ-T, 1KZ-TE 5 3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 1.959 9.0 Axles ========= Regular Land Cruiser axle housings are similar to a Ford 9" and differential carriers are similar in construction to a Chevy 12bolt. The front and rear differential housings are both offset to the right in all models except some '58-62's which were centred. They have an 9.5" ring gear. The axle shafts are 33mm in diameter (the same as a some Dana 60's) 1960-67 shafts had 10 coarse splines while 68 and later shafts have 30 fine splines. In 1968, the front axle CV joints changed from ball joints to Birfield. Full Floating Axles have smaller shafts because the entire weight of the truck is bourne by the wheel bearings and the shaft itself is not loaded in flexure. Light Duty axle housings are the same as those used in Toyota Pickup trucks. They feature a smaller housing constructed similarly to the heavy duty Land Cruiser. The ring gear is only 8" but the axle shafts are the same size and have the same number of splines as the regular Land Cruiser. All Land Cruisers produced after 1991 use a reverse-cut 8" ring gear in the front and the 9.5" ring gear in the rear. 60/2 Series axles are 70mm wider than 40 series 70 Series axles are 20mm wider than 40 series 9.1 AXLE CODES -------------- Axle codes are never located on the axle housings themselves. In trucks manufacturered after 1976, the axle codes are located on the build plate which can be found inside the engine compartment. The pinion (and sometimes the ring gear have the tooth counts (from which the ratio can be calculated) stamped into them. Example: K 08 2 ^ ^^ ^-2 spider gears | ++---4.11 ring/pinion ratio +------9.5" ring gear First digit: ring gear size G 8" J 9.25" K 9.5" Second, third digits: ring/pinion gear ratio (These numbers apply to ALL Toyota vehicles--known Land Cruiser ratios are indicated) 01 3.30 02 3.36 03 3.545 04 3.556 05 3.70 HD Cruiser, Aftermarket HD Cruiser 06 3.889 07 3.90 HD Cruiser 08 4.111 HD Cruiser, Aftermarket HD Cruiser 09 4.222 10 4.375 11 4.444 12 4.625 13 4.79 14 4.875 15 5.125 16 5.286 17 5.60 18 5.714 19 5.833 20 6.167 21 6.667 22 6.78 23 6.833 24 7.64 25 4.556 LD Cruiser, Aftermarket HD Cruiser 26 5.571 27 3.364 28 4.30 LD Cruiser 29 4.10 30 3.727 31 3.909 32 6.591 or 5.583 33 7.503 or 5.583 34 6.781 or 4.786 35 7.636 or 5.60 36 4.778 37 3.583 38 3.417 4.88 Aftermarket HD Cruiser Fourth digit: no of spiders, ltd slip/locker Code spiders 2 2 open 3 2 LS 4 4 Locking Diff 5 4 LS 10.0 Production Codes ===================== The production code of a Land Cruiser breaks down as follows: aJnna[a-aa...] The numbers/letters preceding the dash describe the body/frame style. The first digit indicates the motor series (B/F/H/...) The "J" indicates the vehicle came from the "J" production line the 3rd and 4th digits are numeric and indicate the series (25/40/60/...) The 6th digit (if present) indicates steering position: L Left Hand Drive R/ Right Hand Drive The 7th digit (if present) indicates body type: V Hardtop G Luxury model/wagon P Pickup Soft top The letters after the dash indicate options etc: Transmission type 3SPD K 4SPD M 5SPD P 4SPD AUTO Rear Door Type Tailgate C Swingout (Ambulance) N Lift-up Tailgate (Wagons Only) Grade/Trim Level E VX N GX/LX R Standard Aspiration S Standard E EFI X Turbocharged The last letter usually indicates the intended market: W Europe Q Australia Y Japan K Canada A North America V Middle East If the vehicle was delivered incomplete (usually as a cab and chassis) it received the final designation of 3. ABBREVIATIONS USED ARL Australia CAN Canada FIN Finland (Potentially holds true for all of Europe) GEN General Export JAP Japan ME Middle East NA North America USA ? :) 5F 5 Speed Manual 4F 4 Speed Manual 4FC 4 Speed Automatic IV Incomplete Vehicle (Usually Cab/Chassis Only) SOB Swing Out Back Door LUB Lift Up Back Door RB Roll Bar PU Pickup FRP Removable Fiberglass Top ST Soft Top SRF Low Roof HRF High Roof CODE ENG PRODUCTION NOTES BJ40 LV-KCJK B 3/78-7/80 CAN 4F SOB RB LV-KCW B 7/75-12/80 FIN 4F SOB RB BJ42 LV-KCJK 3B 8/80-10/82 CAN 4F SOB RB LV-KCW 3B 10/80-12/82 FIN 4F SOB RB LV-MCJK 3B 10/82-10/84 CAN 5F SOB RB LV-MCW 3B 1/80-11/85 FIN 5F SOB RB RV-KCQ 3B 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SOB RB RV-MCQ 3B 10/82-10/84 ARL 5F SOB BJ45 LV-KCW 3B 10/80-8/85 FIN 4F TROOP LP-KW 3B 10/80-11/85 FIN 4F PIC BJ60 LV-KK 3B 8/80-10/81 CAN 4F LG-KK 3B 10/81-10/82 CAN 4F LG-MK 3B 10/82-10/85 CAN 5F BJ70 L-KR 3B 11/84-8/88 GEN 4F ST LV-KN 3B 8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX LV-KR 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT LV-MN 3B 8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LX LV-MR 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT LV-MRK 3B 11/84-8/86 CAN 5F HT LX 12V LV-MNK 3B 8/86-7/87 CAN 5F HT LX R-KR 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F ST RV-KR 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT RV-MR 3B 11/84-8/88 GEN 5F HT RV-MRQ 3B 11/84-1/90 ARL 5F HT BJ73 LV-MN 3B 8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LX R-KR 3B 8/86-1/90 GEN 4F ST RV-MRQ 3B 11/84-8/86 ARL 5F FRP RV-MNQ 3B 8/86-1/90 ARL 5F FRP LX BJ74 V-PNX 13BT 10/85-1/90 JAP 4FC FRP RV-PRXQ 13BT 10/85-8/86 ARL 4FC HT RV-MNXQ 13BT 8/86-1/90 ARL 5F HT L RV-MRXQ 13BT 10/85-8/86 ARL 5F HT RV-PNXQ 13BT 8/86-1/90 ARL 4FC HT LX RV-PEXQ 13BT 8/86-8/88 ARL 4FC HT VX BJ75 LP-KR 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F PIC LP-MRV 3B 8/87-1/90 ME 5F PIC LV-MRW 3B 5/85-12/89 FIN 5F TROOP LV-MRP 3B 5/85-1/90 FIN 5F PIC LV-KR 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F TROOP RP-KR 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F PIC RP-KR3 3B 11/84-8/86 GEN 4F PIC IV PR-MR3 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F PIC IV RV-KR 3B 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F TROOP FJ40 L-A F 3/69-1/75 NA ST LV F 1/68-1/75 FIN HT LV-A F 3/69-1/75 NA HT LUB LV-AC F 4/72-1/75 NA HT SOB LV-KCW 2F 10/75-5/79 FIN HT RB L-KJA 2F 1/75-2/76 NA ST RB L-KJA 2F 2/76-7/80 USA 4F ST RB L-KJA 2F 8/80-10/81 USA 4F ST RB LV-KCJA 2F 1/75-2/76 NA 4F HT SOB LV-KCJA 2F 2/76-7/80 NA 4F HT SOB RB LV-KCJA 2F 8/80-9/83 USA 4F SOB RB LV-KJA 2F 2/76-7/80 NA 4F HT LV-KCJK 2F 2/76-7/80 CAN 4F HT SOB RB LV-KCJK 2F 8/80-10/81 CAN 4F HT SOB RB LV-KJK 2F 2/76-9/77 CAN 4F ST KJA 2F 8/80-11/81 NA LV-KCJA 2F 8/80-9/83 NA LV-KCJK 2F 8/80-10/81 CAN R-KJC 2F 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F ST R-MJQ 2F 10/82-10/84 ARL 5F ST RV-KQ 2F 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F LUB RV-KCQ 2F 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SOB RV-MCQ 2F 10/82-10/84 ARL 5F SOB RV-KCQ 2F 8/80-10/84 ARL 4F TROOP SOB FJ45 LP-KK 2F 6/76-7/80 CAN 4F PU LP-B F 3/69 R-KJQ 2F 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F PU ST RP-KQ 2F 8/80-10/84 ARL 4F PU RP-KQ3 2F 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F PU IV FJ55 LG F 3/69-1/75 NA LG-KA 2F 1/75-2/76 NA 4F LG-KA 2F 2/76-7/80 USA 4F LG-KK 2F 2/76-7/80 CAN 4F LV-B F 5/68-1/75 FIN LV-KCW 2F 10/75-12/80 FIN 4F FJ60 LV-KK 2F 8/80-10/81 CAN 4F LG-KA 2F 8/80-8/87 NA 4F 'G' LV-KA 2F 9/86-8/87 USA 4F RG-KQ 2F 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MQ 2F 10/82-11/84 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MZQ 2F 5/83-11/84 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G' RV-KCQ 2F 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SRF SOB RV-MCQ 2F 10/82-11/84 ARL 5F SRF SOB FJ62 LV-PNEA 3F-E 8/87-8/88 USA 4FC LG-PNEA 3F-E 8/87-1/90 USA 4FC 'G' LG-PNEK 3F-E 8/87-1/90 CAN 4FC 'G' RG-MQ 3F 11/84-8/87 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MZQ 3F 11/84-8/87 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-PQ 3F 11/84-8/87 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G' RG-PZQ 3F 11/84-8/87 ARL 4FC HRF LUB 'G' RG-MRCQ 3F 8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF SOB RG-MNQ 3F 8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-PNQ 3F 8/87-1/90 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G' RG-MNZQ 3F 8/87-8/88 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-MEZQ 3F 8/88-1/90 ARL 5F HRF LUB VX RG-PEZQ 3F 8/87-1/90 ARL 4FC HRF LUB VX RV-MCQ 3F 11/84-8/87 ARL 5F SRF SOB RV-PCQ 3F 11/84-10/85 ARL 5F SRF SOB FJ70 L-KR 3F 11/84-8/88 GEN 4F ST L-MR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F ST L-MRV 3F 11/84-8/88 ME 5F ST L-PR 3F 11/84-8/86 GEN 4FC ST LV-KN 3F 8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX LV-KR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT LV-MEV 3F 8/86-1/90 ME 5F HT VX LV-MN 3F 8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LX LV-MNV 3F 8/86-1/90 ME 5F HT LX LV-MR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT LV-MRV 3F 11/84-1/90 ME 5F HT LV-PEV 3F 8/86-8/88 ME 4FC HT VX LV-PN 3F 8/86-1/90 GEN 4FC HT LX LV-PNV 3F 8/86-1/90 ME 4FC HT LX LV-PR 3F 11/84-8/86 GEN 4FC HT LV-PRV 3F 11/84-8/88 ME 4FC HT R-KR 3F 11/84-8/86 GEN 4F ST RV-KR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT RV-MR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT RV-MRQ 3F 11/84-1/90 ARL 5F HT FJ73 L-KR 3F 11/84-8/88 GEN 4F ST L-MR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F ST L-MRV 3F 11/84-1/90 ME 5F ST LV-MEV 3F 8/86-1/90 ME 5F FRP VX LV-MN 3F 8/86-1/90 GEN 5F FRP LX LV-MNV 3F 8/86-1/90 ME 5F FRP LX LV-MR 3F 11/84-8/86 GEN 5F FRP LV-MRV 3F 11/84-8/86 ME 5F FRP LV-PEV 3F 8/86-8/88 ME 4FC FRP VX LV-PNV 3F 8/86-1/90 ME 4FC FRP LX LV-PRV 3F 11/84-8/86 ME 4FC FRP RV-MRQ 3F 11/84-8/86 ARL 5F FRP RV-PRQ 3F 10/85-8/86 ARL 4FC FRP RV-MNQ 3F 8/86-1/90 ARL 5F FRP LX RV-MNQ 3F 1/90-8/91 ARL 5F FRP LX RV-PNQ 3F 8/86-1/90 ARL 4FC FRP LX RV-MEQ 3F 8/86-8/88 ARL 5F FRP VX RV-PEQ 3F 8/86-1/90 ARL 4FC FRP VX FJ75 LP-MNV 3F 8/86-1/90 ME 5F PIC LX LP-KR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F PIC LP-KR3 3F 11/84-8/86 GEN 4F IV LP-MR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F PIC LP-MRV 3F 11/84-1/90 ME 5F PIC LP-MR3 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F IV LV-KR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT TROOP LV-MR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT TROOP LV-MRV 3F 11/84-1/90 ME 5F HT TROOP RP-KR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F PIC RP-KR3 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F IV RP-MR 3F 11/84-10/85 GEN 5F PIC RP-MR3 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F IV RP-MRN 3F 10/85-1/90 SA 5F PIC RV-KR 3F 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT TROOP RV-MRQ 3F 11/84-1/90 ARL 5F HT TROOP RV-MRQ 3F 1/90-8/92 ARL 5F HT TROOP RP-MRQ3 3F 11/84-1/90 ARL 5F IV RP-MRQ3 3F 1/90-8/92 ARL 5F IV RV-MRKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92-1/90 ARL 5F HT TROOP RP-MRKQ3 1FZ-FE 8/92-1/90 ARL 5F IV FJ80 L-GNPNEA 3F-E 1/90-8/92 NA 4FC R-GCMRSQ 3F 1/90-8/92 ARL 5F SOB R-GNMNSQ 3F 1/90-8/92 ARL 5F LUB GXL R-GNPNEQ 3F-E 1/90-8/92 ARL 4FC LUB GXL R-GNPEEQ 3F-E 1/90-8/92 ARL 4FC LUB VX FZJ80 L-GNPEKA 1FZ-FE 8/92-1/90 NA 4FC R-GCMRKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92-1/95 ARL 5F SOB R-GNMNKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- ARL 5F LUB GXL R-GNPNKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- ARL 4FC LUB GXL R-GNPEKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- ARL 4FC LUB VX HJ45 LP-KW H 1/79-12/80 FIN 4F PIC HJ47 RV-KCQ 2H 8/80-10/84 ARL 4F TROOP SOB RP-KQ 2H 8/80-10/84 ARL 4F PIC RP-KQ3 2H 8/80-10/84 ARL 4F PIC IV HJ60 LG-KW 2H 11/80-11/85 FIN 4F LG-MNW 2H 11/87-2/90 FIN 5F SRF LUB LG-MNZW 2H 11/87-11/89 FIN 5F HRF LUB LG-MK 2H 10/85-8/87 CAN 5F LG-MW 2H 2/83-11/87 FIN 5F LG-MZW 2H 4/84-11/87 FIN 5F HRF LUB LG-PK 2H 10/85-8/87 CAN 4FC RG-KQ 2H 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MQ 2H 10/82-8/87 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MNQ 2H 8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MRCQ 2H 8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF SOB RG-MZQ 2H 5/83-10/85 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-PQ 2H 11/84-10/85 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G' RG-PZQ 2H 11/84-8/87 ARL 4FC HRF LUB 'G' RV-KCQ 2H 8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SRF SOB RV-MCQ 2H 10/82-8/87 ARL 5F SRF SOB RV-PCQ 2H 11/84-10/85 ARL 4FC SRF SOB HJ61 LG-MXW 12HT 5/86-11/87 FIN 5F LUB 'G' LG-MNXW 12HT 11/87-1/90 FIN 5F LUB 'G' (Special series 2/89-1/90) RG-MXQ 12HT 10/85-8/87 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MZXQ 12HT 10/85-8/87 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-PXQ 12HT 10/85-8/87 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G' RG-PZXQ 12HT 10/85-8/87 ARL 4FC HRF LUB 'G' RG-MNXQ 12HT 8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-PNXQ 12HT 8/87-1/90 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G' RG-MNZXQ 12HT 8/87-8/88 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-MEZXQ 12HT 8/88-1/90 ARL 5F HRF LUB VX RG-PEZXQ 12HT 8/87-1/90 ARL 4FC HRF LUB VX HJ75 LP-KR 2H 11/85-1/90 GEN 4F PIC LP-MR 2H 10/85-1/90 GEN 5F PIC LV-KP 2H 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT TROOP RP-KR 2H 11/94-1/90 GEN 4F PIC RP-KR3 2H 11/94-1/90 GEN 4F IV RP-MR 2H 11/84-10/85 GEN 5F PIC RV-KR 2H 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT TROOP RP-MRQ 2H 11/84-1/90 ARL 5F PIC RP-MRN AD 10/85-1/90 SA 5F PIC (Atlantis Diesel Engine) RV-MRQ 2H 11/84-1/90 ARL 5F HT TROOP RP-MRQ3 2H 11/84-1/90 ARL 5F PIC IV HDJ80 R-GNMNXQ 1HDT 1/90-1/95 ARL 5F LUB GXL R-GNPNXQ 1HDT 1/90-1/95 ARL 4FC LUB GXL R-GNMEXQ 1HDT 1/90-1/95 ARL 5F LUB VX R-GNPEXQ 1HDT 1/90-1/95 ARL 4FC LUB VX R-GNMNWQ 1HDFT 1/95- ARL 5F LUB GXL R-GNPNWQ 1HDFT 1/95- ARL 4FC LUB GXL R-GNPEWQ 1HDFT 1/95- ARL 4FC LUB VX HZJ70 RV-MRQ 1HZ 1/90-1/95 ARL 5F HT V-MNS 1HZ 1/95- JAP 5F ? LX V-MNU 1HZ 1/95- JAP 5F ? LX HZJ73 RV-MNQ 1HZ 1/90-8/91 ARL 5F HT LX RV-PNQ 1HZ 1/90-8/91 ARL 4FC HT LX HZJ75 RP-MRQ 1HZ 1/90- ARL 5F IV RP-MRQ3 1HZ 1/90- ARL 5F IV HZJ80 R-GCMRSQ 1HZ 1/90- ARL 5F SOB R-GNMNSQ 1HZ 1/90- ARL 5F LUB GXL LJ70 L-KR 2L 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F ST LV-KN 2L 8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX LV-KR 2L 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT LV-MR 2L 11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT LV-MNX 2LT 8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LX LV-MRX 2LT 10/85-8/86 GEN 5F HT LV-MRXW 2LT 9/86-11/86 FIN 5F HT LV-MNXW 2LT 11/86-12/92 FIN 5F HT (Special 6/87-11/87, 5/91-12/92) R-KR 2L 11/84-8/88 GEN 4F ST RV-KN 2L 8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX RV-KR 2L 11/84 GEN 4F HT RV-MR 2L 11/84-10/85 GEN 5F HT RV-MRX 2LT 10/85-8/86 GEN 5F HT RV-MRXQ 2LT 10/85-8/86 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA RV-MNXQ 2LT 8/86-1/90 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA LX RV-MNXQ 2LT 1/90-8/92 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA LX RV-MEXQ 2LT 8/86-8/88 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA VX PZJ70 RV-MRQ 1PZ 1/90-5/93 ARL 4F HT RV-MNQ 1PZ 1/90-5/93 ARL 5F HT LX -MRS 1PZ JAP 5F ST V-MNS 1PZ JAP 5F HT LX V-MRS 1PZ JAP 5F HT PZJ77 HV-MNU 1PZ 1/90-1/94 JAP 5F HT LX V-MRU 1PZ 1/90-1/94 JAP 5F HT HV-MNS 1PZ 1/90-1/94 JAP 5F HT LX V-MRS 1PZ 1/90-1/94 JAP 5F HT RJ70 L-KR 22R 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F ST L-MR 22R 11/84-8/86 GEN 5F ST L-MRV 22R 11/84-8/88 ME 5F ST LV-KR 22R 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT LV-KN 22R 8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX LV-MN 22R 8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LV-MEV 22R 8/86-8/88 ME 5F HT VX LV-MNV 22R 8/86-1/90 ME 5F HT LX LV-MRV 22R 11/84-8/88 ME 4F HT R-MRQ 22R 11/84-8/88 ARL 5F ST BUNDERA RV-KR 22R 11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT RV-KN 22R 8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX RV-MRQ 22R 11/84-8/86 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA RV-MNQ 22R 8/86-1/90 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA LX RV-MNQ 22R 1/90-8/91 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA LX RV-MEQ 22R 11/84-8/86 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA VX 11.0 Body Colour Codes ====================== This list is by no means complete. I don't know the start/end date for most of the colours. When I precede a date by a "<" I'm sure of that date, but believe the colour was AVAILABLE BEFORE that date. If I put a "-<" before a date, the colour was PHASED OUT BEFORE that date. CODE COLOUR NAME YEARS OFFERED 4x 55 6x 7x 80 012 Cygnus White <71-76 <71-76 033 White 80- 113 Health Grey <71-<79 155 Dk Charcoal Grey Irrid. 87 202 Green 309 Freeborn Red <71-84 <71-79 80- 414 Buffalo Brown <71-<79 415 Pueblo Brown <71-<79 <71-<79 416 Dune Beige <71-80 464 Beige 79-84 80-84 474 Dark Copper -79 4E9 Beige 85 4G8 Light Beige Irrid. 532 Yellow <76-<79,82? 611 Dark Green -<79 621 Rustic Green (Dark) <71-79 622 Nebula Green <71-<79 <71-<79 653 Olive Green <76-82 681 Green (Medium) 81-83 808 Horizontal Blue <71-<75 822 Royal Blue <71-<79 <71-<76 854 Blue (sky blue) <76-80 857 Nordic Blue (Dark) 79-84 80-84 Feel Like Blue 861 Bright Blue Irrid. 81-83 8B4 Night Blue Irrid. 85- LM11 Two Tone patterns VEHICLE YEARS CODE COLOURS USED FJ55(L)V, V-B 71 C6580 113/012/113 71 C6581 309/012/309 71 C6582 415/012/415 71 C6583 622/012/622 71 C6584 822/012/822 FJ55LG 71 C6591 113/012/113 71 C6592 309/012/309 71 C6593 415/012/415 71 C6594 622/012/622 71 C6595 822/012/822 12.0 Decoding your ID plates ============================ I'll describe the various ID plate types with their usual location in brackets. Keep in mind, I've only seen North American plates so yours may be quite different. The extra-descriptive plate with the axle/transmission/colour codes was not used until 1976. If your vehicle was sold in North America, there's a 99-44/100% chance that youre truck's got 4.11 gears and an H42 or J30 transmission anyways. Pre-1974 ID Plate (FENDER APRON) +-----------------------------------------+ |O T O Y O T A O| | MODEL FJ40L | | ___ ENGINE MODEL F | | |tep| NUMBER OF CYLINDERS 6 | | ~~~ BORE 3.54 in | | STROKE 4.00 in | | PISTON DISPLACEMENT 237 cu.in | | NO. FJ40-000000 | |O TOYOTA MOTOR CO., LTD. O| +-----------------------------------------+ 1976 FJ55 (FENDER APRON) +-----------------------------------------+ |O T O Y O T A O| | MODEL FJ55LG-KK | | ENGINE 2F 4230cc/257.9cu.in | | FRAME No. FJ55-86909 | | COLOR/TRIM | | TRANS/AXLE | | PLANT/G.V.W. MADE | | JAPANESE... IN | |O tep TOYOTA MOTOR CO., LTD. JAPAN O| +-----------------------------------------+ 13.0 40 Series Specific Info ============================ 13.1 Production Timeline (US/Canada) ------------------------------------ MODEL YEAR ENG TRANSMISSION TRANSFER OTHER 1960 F 3-on the tree 2.313:1 Start of prodution Small round FR turn signals Single brake master cyl resevoir 1963 3 on the floor (Option) 1964 Flip-up roof vent removed Smooth headlight bezel 1965 Larger side windows and corner windows added 1968 30 fine spline axles replace 10 coarse splines Birfield joints replace ball joints in FR Siamese centre exhaust ports replaced One piece manifold gasket added Cable throttle linkage replaces rod Padded Dash Vin plate on door pillars 1969 "Improved" steering centre arm Small Rectangular FR turn signals Replaceable element oil filter replaced with catridge type (03/69) 1970 Dual resevoir master cyl Dual horns 1971 Power Brakes (07/70) 1972 3 on the floor STD Smog pump appears (09/72) Domed pistons in F become standard (09/72) Additional wire added from starter to coil (12/72) 1973 Separate model for Calif introduced (09/73) EGR system added (09/73) Extra gusseting added to spare tire carrier (03/73) Additional frost plugs added to block (09/73) Notched con-rod bearings replace knock pin (09/73) Additional oil hole for rocker lubrication added (09/73) Head bolts lenthened to 145.5mm (09/73) Two ridges added to valves for retainers (09/73) Front diff fill plug moved 20mm closer to centreline of axle (12/73) Saftey catch added on hood Ignition switch moved to steering column Factory AM radio Stronger steering box 1974 2F 4 SPD 1.999:1 4 Speed Transmission (8/74) Larger universal joints & flanges (01/74) Transfer shift rod notched for driveshaft clearance (1/74) Rectangular RR brake lights/turn signals RR lower shock bolt moves from axle to U- bolt bracket Clutch changed from coil spring type to diaphragm (08/74) Clutch slave moved from left to right side of bellhousing (08/74) Cover added to timing hole (08/74) No. 2 cover on bellhousing changed from steel to rubber (08/74) Clutch release fork boot modified) U-joint flange modified for better grease nipple access (11/74) Longest production run of any LC (9/73- 12/74) 1975 1.959:1 Thicker side doors Ambulance doors replace lift/tailgate LG Square FR Turn Signals/side markers Wipers move to bottom of windshield Muffler moved from between frame rails to under rear tub Transfer Case shift lever size increased (03/75) Transfer Case gear area increased (Start of 1.959 Case Ratio) (04/75) Valve seats improved (04/75) 1976 FR disk brakes (9/75) Larger brifields Front outer axle shafts changed from 10 coarse splines to 30 fine splines Front spindles and bearings enlarged Build plate appears Transfer bushing diameter decreased (02/76) 1977 Tubular spare tire mount (09/76) Pop-out rear windows (08/76) 1978 2F,B Diesel comes to Canada Fine spline pinion flange (1/78) 1979 3.73:1 Diff becomes standard on FJ 22 gal under-floor fuel tank Power steering becomes and option Air conditioning becomes an option Reclining Seats Catalytic converter Fewer, larger body mounts Squared off headlight bezel & wider set headlights Tail-lights grounded via wire instead of through housing (1/79) 1981 2F,3B 2.276 3B comes to Canada Improved 3B exhaust manifold Larger shackles, hangers & frame gussets Split case transfer case New RR brakes with 11.8" drums and single self-adjusting wheel cylinder (8/80) Parking brake moved from rear of TFR to rear drums Warn front hubs replaced with stainless steel Aisin units Front outer axle shafts shortened Rear heater moves under center console "Shield" shaped steering wheel centre Locking "Pocket" Chrome window weather stripping replaced with rubber 1983 4(40)/5SPD(42)1.959 Dash re-designed & includes digital clock 1984 Production CEASES! :( Although production of the 40 Series Land Cruiser stopped in 1984, there is still a _COPY_ in production. It is manufactured in Brazil and is called a Bandeirante. It features a body/frame which is a copy of a Land Cruiser and is powered by a Mercedes diesel motor. 13.2 More Production Info -------------------------- These are some known dates associated with frame and engine numbers. This should provide some assistance in determining the vintage of components. DATE FRAME NO. ENGINE NO. TRANNY NO. NOTES 04/69 067429 Starting frame for '70 09/70 89034 Starting frame for '71 09/71 113001 Starting frame for '72 08/72 134102 Starting frame for '73 ST 08/72 134627 Starting frame for '73 HT 09/72 140174 F-406511 03/73 144381 05/73 F-434231 09/73 160001 F-510001 Starting frame for '74 11/73 3J-425 12/73 165428 12/73 166077 12/73 166226 01/74 167459 04/74 F-539555 08/74 179420 4spd tranny 08/74 179455 3spd tranny 11/74 185078 4L-1104 12/74 191096 Starting frame for '75 03/75 195335 04/75 198572 2F-917420 5D-2128 Start of 1.959 tfr ratio 05/75 199225 05/75 200074 09/75 207793 Starting frame for '76 01/75 215536 02/76 219424 602-2435 09/76 231077 Starting frame for '77 09/77 256757 Starting frame for '78 01/79 298294 05/81 341000 14.0 55 Series Specific Info ============================ 14.1 Production Timeline (US/Canada) - Kerry Manning (D55guy@engr.colostate.edu) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Many of the FJ40 changes also apply MODEL YEAR ENG TRANSMISSION TRANSFER OTHER 1969 F135 3 on tree 2.313:1 FT turn (Amber) mounted on side of engine cowling (wing style) Front parking lights (A) mounted in grill Brake lights (R) and rear turn signals (R) mounted at belt line Mini "scoops" mounted on hood 1970 Grill slightly modified Front turn signal (A) mounted on top of fender (simple pedestal style) Front parking lights (A) removed Mini "scoops" removed 1971 A/C becomes optional! (7/70) Temperature gauge changed (7/70) F155 Oil filler moved to valve cover (3/71) 3 on the floor Rod linkage replaces vacuum shift on t-case (3/71) Headlight bezel updated (3/71) Smaller windshield washer tank (3/71) 1972 Speedometer changed (9/71) Steering box and associated parts changed (4/72) 1973 Very minor modification to grill (9/72) Rear vent added (9/72) Two piece license plate light replaces the one piece (9/72) Heater changed with larger front blower vent (9/72) Dash changed to fit removable panel for easier access (9/72) Key moved to column (9/72) Steering wheel changed (9/72) Speedometer changed (9/72) Antenna changed (1/73) 1974 Wing window removed (9/73) Two piece fender emblem replaced with one- piece (9/73) ASCO Hubs become standard (9/73) 2F 4SPD Oil filter moved to side of block Aluminum valve cover and water pump Smaller air cleaner on top of valve cover Hood changed to accommodate 2F air cleaner 1975 Front running lights (A) removed (12/74) Front turn signal upgrades to combination signal (pedestal style) (12/74) Exhaust system redesigned (1/75) Optional A/C redesigned (1/75) Lock added to fuel door (1/75) Door lock changed so door must be unlocked to be opened from inside (8/75) 1976 Larger, fine spline Birfields (9/75) Front disc brakes (9/75) Greatly improved brake booster (9/75) Temperature gauge changed (9/75) Retractable front seat belts (1/76) Optional A/C redesigned (2/76) 1977 Slight cosmetic modifications to tailgate (12/76) "TOYOTA" and "4 WHEEL DRIVE" emblems added to tail gate (12/76) 1978 Combination tail light (9/77) Combination gauge ammeter upgraded from warning light to actual gauge (9/77) Fuel gauge changed (9/77) Temperature gauge changed (9/77) Upgraded horn (9/77) 1979 Ring and Pinion ratio changed to 3.70 (1/79) Speedometer changed (9/79) 1980 The seen mystical legend of the 55 w/ factory p.s. Production ends 14.2 Frame Number dates ----------------------- See the FJ40 section for engine number dates. DATE FRAME NO. NOTES 04/69 013179 Starting frame for '70 09/70 018461 Starting frame for '71 09/71 024001 Starting frame for '72 08/72 029632 Starting frame for '73 12/72 031360 09/73 037001 Starting frame for '74 11/73 038641 12/73 038844 12/73 038878 01/74 039208 08/74 043288 4spd tranny 08/74 043293 3spd tranny 11/74 045017 12/74 046864 12/74 046926 Starting frame for '75 03/75 049008 04/75 049988 05/75 050647 California 06/75 051761 08/75 053910 09/75 054106 Starting frame for '76 02/76 058666 02/76 059587 09/76 065053 Starting frame for '77 09/77 078501 Starting frame for '78 01/79 100328 15.0 60 Series Specific Info ============================ 15.1 Production Info -------------------- DATE FRAME NO. TRANNY NO. 5/81 013248 5/81 014196 11/86 6J-3857 Aftermarket tailgate lift struts NAPA Balkamp Powerlift 819-5565 16.0 80 Series Specific Info ============================ 16.1 Full Time 4WD ------------------ All 80 series Cruisers sold in North America and Europe are full time 4wd. In Africa and Australia, a part-time system is still available. 80's produced between '90-'91 have an open center differential which is lockable in 4HI and automatically locked in 4LO. From '92 on, vehicles with ABS had a viscous coupling that sent a maximum of 30% torque the non-slipping axle. The differential is lockable in 4HI and automatically locked in 4LO. 16.2 Locking Differentials -------------------------- Locking differentials were available as options in all 80 series. From 94 on, they were standard in Canada. The operation of the lockers is very elegant. When the differential lock dial is turned to the "Locked" position, it switches on a small electrical servo. The servo pushes on a dog clutch which is meshed with the splines on the axle shaft. The dog clutch slides along the axle shaft and engages on the side of the differential carrier. The axle is then completely locked. They were offered from the procuction date 8/92 onwards. 17.0 Buying/Inspecting a Land Cruiser ===================================== NOTE: This article is biased towards 40 series Land Cruisers, although it can be applied any model. Also, parts of this may sound a little like a sermon. This is because for me Land Cruiser ownership goes beyond possesing a vehicle and well into the realm of the occult. Are YOU willing to sacrifice you life for your Land Cruiser? Furthermore, this article should be required reading for the new Land Cruiser owner. Running through the pre-buy checklist will help you find potential problems in your new truck, and see what maintenance needs to be done. So you want to buy a Land Cruiser. First, some words of warning. If you're looking at a 40 series, the vehicle will be at least 11 years old. It was built as an offroad vehicle and as a result has probably taken alot more of a beating than a car of a similar vintage. It will definitely require more upkeep than a new vehicle. With all Land Cruisers, newer is definitely better. Unlike the Jeeps whose "quality" varied widely from year to year until Chysler "neutered" them all and Land Rovers where some Series are shunned because their headlights are in the wrong place, Toyota was continually improving the Land Cruiser. Check the production timelines earlier in the FAQ to determine which features you can live without and hence how old you're willing to go. The only exception to this rule is if you're living under a fascist regime such as Kalifornia where ancient frames are prized for their smog exempt status. Usually long before someone decides to sell a Cruiser, they decide that they should stop pouring money into it. Therefore, shortly after you purchase your truck you can expect to have to dump a whole lot of money into it to fix little things the previous owner couldn't be bothered to do. This can be VERY discouraging. Don't worry. Once you get your truck into a roadworthy state, it will remain there for quite some time. When I first got my truck, the fuel gauge didn't work, most of the knobs were missing, the headlights had a nasty habit of turning off instead of switching to high-beam, none of the interior or signal lights worked, the u-bolt plates were cracked, the shackle pins were about to rip out of the shackle plates, the rear tub was basically gone, along with the bottom 2" of the hard top and rear doors. Older Land Cruisers (Anything other than a 60 or 80) make lousy daily drivers. They're loud, they suffer from a relatively harsh ride and vague-on road handling, and the gas ones get lousy fuel economy. Thanks to brick-like aerodynamics, side-winds quickly become tail-winds. You don't want to commute in an FJ40. Anyways, that said, there are some requirements that I believe a Land Cruiser owner should meet. They need to have a steady income. I bought my Cruiser while I was in university and wound up having to take a couple of years off to work to be able to fix it up. If you're a starving student, you're probably better off with a mini-truck. Parts are cheaper, and there's a whole lot more of them so they're more "disposable" If you've got a significant other, your relationship has to be up to the stresses imposed by the new arrival. It took a long time for my girlfriend to adjust to being a "Land Cruiser widow" If a Land Cruiser is brought into a weak relationship, there's always the chance you won't get to keep the house--then you'd be without a garage to work in. Actually, a garage is pretty much required. Lying out in the street is hazardous and people tend to walk off with tools they find lying on the sidewalk. I also firmly believe that you should do EVERYTHING on your Cruiser AT LEAST ONCE. If you have a professional mechanic attend to all you maintenance, you'll be out of luck when something goes wrong miles from the nearest gas station So you've warned anyone that cares about you that you'll never see them again, and their only contact with you will be standing in the garage yelling at the underside of your truck. You're mentally prepared to become the caretaker of a disappearing breed. Time to go shopping. You should start scanning the local classified ads for a couple of months before you actually begin to shop in earnest. That way, you can begin to check out the local price-structure. In certain parts of the U.S. and Eastern Canada, you may only see one Cruiser a week, if that. Once you learn that the most ancient truck costs more money than you have, you're ready to start making calls. When you finally locate a truck, it's time to go for a look. The things you should watch for can be grouped into several categories. 17.1 Engine ----------- I'm not a fan of gas truck engines, so I can't offer too much help here. I've heard that the intake manifold tends to crack if the truck has been overheated. Start by checking for coolant leaks from the hoses, water pump, and radiator. Next check for oil leaks from around the pushrod inspection plate that the blow-by tube comes from, the gasket between the oil pan and the block, and the vaccum pump if so equipped (diesel) 17.1.1 Diesel Engine -------------------- When the engine is fired up, watch how quickly the oil pressure builds. If the idle is high (the engine feels smooth instead of causing the whole truck to shake) There's probably either a hole in the diaphragm or the vaccum lines that go to it. Both are relatively cheap and easy to replace provided you buy Nippondenso and not Toyota parts. You can test a diaphragm by pulling off the top end of the "clear" vacuum hose that goes to the rearmost nipple on the injection pump and blowing into it. If you can build pressure, the diaphragm is still good. It is normal for a cold diesel to blow a little white smoke at start-up. Black smoke usually means that the injectors need service, white smoke indicates under-injection of diesel (probably due to a perforated diaphragm), and blue smoke shows that oil heavier than diesel is burning (Ohh ohh!) When the truck is running, check for excessive exhaust coming out of the blow-by tube. If the truck has a noticable miss as it warms up, one of the glow plugs is shot. They have to be replaced as a set. The amount of blow-by will indicate the amount of wear in the engine. 17.1.2 Gas Engine ----------------- Pull the spark plugs and check them for oil fouling. If they're coated, oil is getting into the cylinder past the rings and valve guides. 17.2 Cooling System ------------------- With the engine COMPLETELY cold, remove the rad cap and check the coolant level. If you can' actually see any coolant in the rad, there's probably a leak. If a B/H series diesel is overheated or run with inadequate coolant, the heads are prone to cracking. Carefully look at the rad. Usually leaks will show up as whitish stains. When you return from a test drive, mist the rad with water. If all the water evaporates then the tubes aren't plugged. If there are areas where the water evaporates and others where it doesn't [cold spots, usually vertical sections of the rad] then the rad needs to be serviced [power flushed or rodded-out]. You can also check for cold spots by using your hand but there is often not a lot of space between the grille and the rad --> and you could burn your hand. Be careful. 17.3 Electrical --------------- In both gas and diesel Cruisers, check the alternator for excessive play. A brand new onw is worth a small fortune. Rebuilt 12V ones are difficult to find and 24V ones are virtually impossible. If a diesel alternator with a vacuum pump on the back shows any signs of oil leakage, it's probably shot. If you find that there are accessories (radio etc. attached to only one battery of a 24V diesel, you can expect to replace the battery shortly. Drawing 12V off one of the battery loads them unequally leading to undercharging of one and overcharging of the other. In 1974 and up 40 series, a dead bulb, bad ground, or wiring problem in a turn signal will result in the indicator light in the dash sticking "on" In 60 and 70 series the same type of problem will show up as the indicator light flashing "double time" 17.4 Transmission/transfer -------------------------- Check for leaks in all the gaskets and seals. Chances are, if a seal is leaking, the bearing behind it is shot. Ask the owner what kind of lubricant they're using. Synthetic gear oil will often manage to seep past a seal that's good enough for regular oil. If a seal is weeping synthetic gear oil, chances are it's on its way out anyways. Check for lateral play in the output yokes from the transfer case. Movement intdicates bearings that are in need of replacement. If the movement is greater than 1/8" chances are the gears themselves have been damaged once that occurrs, the transfer case gets EXTREMELY expensive to re-build. If a 40 series has been lifted more than 2", check to make sure that the notch in the skid plate the front drive shaft passes through has been enlarged. Otherwise, the rearmost yoke on the front driveshaft will bang on the plate causing the bearings in the transfer case to fail. With the truck parked on a level surface, take out the transmission fill plug. If gear oil pours out of the plug, the seal between the transfer case and transmission is probably shot. This is a cheap part, but replacing it pretty much requires pulling the transfer and transmission. I also believe that when this seal goes, it's not a bad idea to rebuild the transfer anyways. It is usually the first internal problem that develops, and rebuilding the case when it goes ensures that all the gears will still be in good shape. A leak from the rear output flange of the transfer usually results in destroyed parking brake shoes in pre-1981 transfer cases. When test-driving the truck, feel how smoothly the truck shifts. It is normal for four and five speed transmissions to be a little balky when they're cold. The H55F 5 speed tends to be worse in this respect. If the transmission is difficult to shift when warm, chances are the synchros are shot. Transmissions/transfer cases popping out of gear is a desparate cry for a rebuild. Left for any length of time, it will lead to severe gear/shift collar damage. 17.5 Driveshafts ---------------- Check for play in the universal joints. Although a worn joint is cheap to fix, if the truck has been driven with the excessive vibration of a failed joint for any length of time, the transfer case and pinion bearings can suffer. Dents in the shafts can also cause vibrations and premature failure. Grab the shafts on either side of the slip joint and try to rotate each side in the opposite direction. If there's movement, or wose yet a "clicking" the slip joint splines are worn and will need to be replaced. Check that the univeral joints and slip- joints have been greased, but NOT just prior to your arrival. (There should be SOME dirt stuck to any traces of grease on the zerk-fittings or around the joints) Grab the driveshaft on either side of the slip joint and try to rotate the two halves relative to each other. Any movement indicates that the splines in the slip joint are shot and either the driveshaft must be cut and the splines replaced, or the whole driveshaft must be replaced. 17.6 Rear Axle -------------- Check the pinion flange for excessive play. Usually slop here will result in an a destroyed ring and pinion. While inspecting the brakes, check for any signs of gear oil on the backing plates or brake shoes. Gear oil that has leaked past the seal at the outboard end of the axle tube will saturate the brake shoes and destroy them. It is rare for a Cruiser to experience wheel bearing failure unless they've REALLY been abused. 17.7 Front axle --------------- The above rules for checking the pinion bearings apply along with some potential problems for the steering knuckles. Check that there is a thin coating of grease covering the knuckle balls from top to bottom. Accumulations of crud on the knuckle balls can indicate one of two things. Grease indicates that the knuckle seals are shot. Gear oil indicates that the seal inside the axle tube. Either problem requires complete disassembly of the knuckles. If the balls are dry, they've been run improperly lubricated for quite a while and at least the upper knuckle bearings will be destroyed. If the tire can be grabbed by the top and rocked back and forth, either the wheel bearing is loose, or the knuckle bearings are shot. Get someone else to try and rock the wheel and watch if it's moving relative to the knuckle or if the knuckle is moving relative to the axle tube. Quite often if the wheel bearings are loose, they are simply in need of re-packing and adjustment. 17.8 Steering ------------- In manual steering equipped Cruisers, check for gear oil in the steering box by removing the breather vent located on the top. If there is none, the pitman-arm seal has failed and the bearings are probably almost gone. If there is grease in the steering box, the seal has failed, and the owner has at least tried to extend the life of the steering box. It may be salvagable, but pulling the pitman arm to replace the seal will require a very stout puller and possibly a little heat from an oxy-acetelyne torch. Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth through a 90 degree arc while you inxpect the steering box and centre arm (on 40's-55's) The centre arm should rotate with no sign of "wobbling" If the steering tends to "stay where it's left" while driving rather than returning to centre, the seller has probably cranked up the centre arm to try to hide slop. Check the ball joints with a pair of water-pump pliers. Squeeze the ball joint from the top and bottom (taking care not to put pressure on grease nipples, if present) if it "compresses," it is worn out. Replacing worn tie-rod ends is relatively easy, but ensure that there's only play in the ball joint and not in the threads between the rod and the end. This will require replacing the rods themselves. 17.9 Brakes ----------- To check the brakes, push the pedal down and hold it. If the pedal travels slowly to the floor, there is a leak in the system. If it is apparent the system is leaking, start off by checking at each wheel. Remove each wheel in turn and check for leaks. Look for leaks from the callipers on disc brake equipped vehicles, and wheel cylinders on drum brake equipped vehicles. On drum brake vehicles, put each drum back on and feel how easily it pulls off. It is usually very difficult to coerce a drum to come off, but once you've broken the "seal of rust," they should only be slightly snug--if they come off too easily the wheel cylinders need adjustment. Out-of-adjustment wheel cylinders will also show up when you depress the brake pedal in the form of excessive pedal travel. Check the shoes for reasonably even wear and thickness and look for any signs of scoring in the drums. Try to turn the adjusters on the wheel cylinders. If they're seized, they will need replacement. You can get a rough idea if the drums are warped or not by putting them back on the truck and spinning them. There should be even resistance thought a complete rotation. Check all the steel lines for excessive corrosion or kinks. Flexible lines can be checked by "kinking" them back on themselves. If the edge that is in tension shows signs of cracks, it needs replacement. 17.10 Suspension ---------------- Many people will replace the factory suspension anyways, so for them damage here is of little concern. If the stock suspension is to be retained, there are a number of items that should be checked. Check the spring packs for broken or bent leaves. If there are no shoulders on the bushings or the shackle pin doesn't appear to pass through the centre of the spring eye/spring hanger the bushings will need to be replaced. Check at theres no movement of the shackle pin relative to the shackle plate. Pre-81 stock shackles are prone to the pins working loose. Looking at the condition of the U-bolt ends below the spring plate will give clues to the use of the vehicle. If the U-bolt ends are bent/scraped, the truck has seen some off-road beating. While looking under the U-bolt plate, ensure that you can see the nut and spring pin. The pin will sometimes break in the middle of the spring pack causing the bottom chunk to fall out. Replacing the pin requires removing/replacing the U-bolts as well. Check that the shock mounts on the rear crossmembers and u-bolt plates aren't broken. Frame/axle mounted broken pins must be cut out and new ones welded in. On 40 series, the top front shackle mount pin will sometimes develop play relative to the shock mount tower. If that is the case, it can temporarily be fixed by adding another washer to the large-nut end of the pin, but will eventually require proper replacement which involves welding/boring out the tower. 17.11 Body --------- This is probably where you'll find the greatest variance in Land Crusiers. Some trucks are pristine and have been hermetically sealed in their garages all winter, whereas some have been used to launch boats in the ocean. The former will have a body. The latter won't. The problem areas for 40 series are: (probable order of occurence) -along the seam between the sides of the body and the tops of the fenders in the rear -under the back doors -the "box section" that runs under the door sills -the lower edges of all doors -on the fenders around the turn signals -on the fenders where the support brackets from the frame attach -along the sill that runs down in front of the doors -the windshield frame under the rubber gasket -the lower edge of the hard top and the steel drain sill under the fibreglass The problem areas for the 60's and 70's are -the lip around the fender wells -the lower edges of all the doors -the rear quarter panels -under the rubber gasket around the windshield -under the mud flaps -basically any seam around the rear wheel-wells. -the seams in the front footwells Finding a 60 that has the dealer-installed aluminum running boards is a good sign. Intact running boards indicates that the vehicle had never really been used offroad and they also prevent the rocker panels/lower door edges from being hit by spray from the tires, decreasing the liklihood of rust. 17.12 Frame ----------- The most common areas for frame rust on a 40 series are the gusset plates above the rear-most spring hangers, the rear crossmember, and the diagonals that run from the frame rails to the crossmember. As long as the frame rails themselves are okay, most of the gussets/brackets can be replaced. If the steel looks like its "delaminating," it is shot. On pre-1981 trucks, the frames also tend to crack where the boxing ends above the front-most rear spring perches. The crack tends to run longitudinally from the rear-most rivet on the perch towards the back of the truck. The spring perches can also be tweaked, especially if the truck has been running extended shackles. As you sight along the framerails the shackles should be perpendicular to the bottom flange. Tweaked fixed-pin spring perches are rarer, but if a rear one is out of alignment, chances are the frame has cracked. Because of the stronger design, perch/hanger problems aren't as common on post- '81 40s and 42s. Feel through the holes on the inboard sides of the frame rails. Large flakes of rust are a sign of problems to come. 60s and 70s only real problems stem from rust. Their frame designs don't have the same large holes as on 40s so they're harder to clean and more prone to trapping crud and rusting. Feel through the small access holes for signs of rust flakes. The worst spots for frame rust on 60s and 70s are where the muffler is next to the frame. It is possible for the steel to be weakened to the point that a screwdriver can easily be poked through it with no outwardly visible warning signs. The other big problem area is the rearmost section of the frame where it is just a channel (as opposed to fully boxed) 17.13 Inspection Checklist -------------------------- Here's a handy checklist to print out and take with you when going to look at a prospective purchase. It' based on the checklist used for the Coastal Cruisers annual safety inspection: OWNER INFO Name:_________________________ Directions to truck's location:_____________ Address:______________________ ____________________________________________ Phone Number: (____)____-_____ ____________________________________________ VEHICLE INFO Model:_________________ Production Date:_________ Mileage:__________________ ENGINE Oil Level G A P Oil Pressure G A P Motor Mounts G A P Spark/Glow Plugs G A P Carb G A P Governer Diaphragm G A P COOLING SYSTEM Radiator G A P Overflow Bottle G A P NA Hoses G A P Belts G A P Water Pump G A P BATTERY TIE DOWNS LF G A P NA RF G A P NA LIGHTS Head Lights Markers Turn Signals Brake Reverse License LF G A P G A P G A P RF G A P G A P G A P LR G A P G A P G A P G A P RR G A P G A P G A P G A P G A P SUSPENSION Springs Bushings Shocks Shackles Centre Pins LF G A P G A P G A P G A P G A P RF G A P G A P G A P G A P G A P LR G A P G A P G A P G A P G A P RR G A P G A P G A P G A P G A P EXHAUST Manifold G A P Pipes G A P Muffler G A P WIPERS G A P HORN G A P STEERING Box G A P Centre-Arm G A P NA Tie Rod Ends G A P Rag Joint G A P NA U-Joints G A P NA Slip Joint G A P NA BRAKES Parking Shoes/Pads Drums/Rotors Master Cyl. LF G A P G A P G A P RF G A P G A P LR G A P G A P G A P RR G A P G A P G A P CLUTCH Master Cyl G A P Slave Cyl G A P BEARINGS Wheel Knuckle Pinion Transfer Case Output LF G A P G A P RF G A P G A P F G A P G A P R G A P G A P SEALS Wheel Knuckle Pinion Transfer Case Output LF G A P G A P RF G A P G A P F G A P G A P R G A P G A P DRIVE SHAFTS U-Joint Slip Joint FF G A P G A P FR G A P RF G A P G A P RR G A P BODY Mounts Seat Belts Roll Bar/Cage Sup. LF G A P G A P G A P RF G A P G A P G A P LM G A P G A P RM G A P G A P LR G A P G A P G A P RR G A P G A P G A P BODY Fenders Rocker Panels Quarter Panels Lower Door Windshield LF G A P G A P G A P G A P RF G A P G A P G A P G A P LR G A P G A P G A P G A P RR G A P G A P G A P G A P FRAME Rails Perches Hangers LF G A P G A P G A P RF G A P G A P G A P LR G A P G A P G A P RR G A P G A P G A P 18.0 Drivetrain Swaps ===================== 18.1 Non-Toyota Equipment ------------------------- There is really no limit as to the complexity of swaps you can attempt with a Land Cruiser. The most common modifications are swapping engines and transmissions. Let me begin by saying that I am not a big fan of putting non-Toyota equipment into Land Cruisers. I only decided to write this section because I got tired of people asking me about swaps and not being able to provide any answers. This section is incomplete and will probably remain that way for quite some time until fans of the various engines supply me with more info. Also, because I do not have first hand experience with anything in this section, the chances of me making errors is greater. If you have a functioning 2F in your truck, I would leave well-enough alone. The engine is VERY heavy duty, makes good low-end torque, will never overheat provided your cooling system is in good shape. An older F is potentially a better candidate to be removed and replaced with a more modern setup. It should be noted that once you pull the F series motor from your truck, it is no longer a FJ40/55/60/... I prefer the designation of V8J40. I will talk about engine swaps retaining a Toyota transmission, transmission swaps retaining a Toyota engine, swaping in a new engine and transmission simultaneously, and finally, I'll touch on transfer case and axle swaps. 18.2 Diesel Engine Swaps ------------------------ I'm starting here because to me this is the swap that makes the most sense for a rock-crawling machine and is probably the least explored. As you'll figure out shortly, I'm pretty opinionated on this one and I welcome anyone to dispute my views. I believe that diesel engines are superior to gas ones for offroad use for many reasons. They tend to make usable torque at much lower engine speed than gas engines. This means you don't need nearly as low a crawl gear. They also feature a much flatter torque curve. There is no ignition system to fail because of moisture. They are not as affected by altitude, in fact, turbocharged diesels are virtually immune to altitude. In most cases, even though they have all the advantages of a fuel injected engine, such as the ability to run at extreme angles, they rely on mechanical injection which is considerably simpler than electonic injection. Diesel engines also tend to get much better fuel economy and greater cruising range than gas engines of similar displacement. There are three commonly available engines that are suitable for swapping into Land Cruisers. Probably the biggest obstacle to the conversion is finding the engine itself. The GM engines are the only ones listed here that are available in light-duty automotive applications. The others are all industrial/medium duty truck engines. These motors tend to be snapped up as soon as the vehicle they were in is wrecked and rebuilt by companies with exclusive licenses. Unless you're willing to pay top dollar for a rebuilt unit (not a bad idea) you have to somehow find a way to intercept a motor before the rebuilders get their hands on it. The most easily obtained is the GM 6.2l diesel. A conversion kit is available from Mark's Adapters in Australia to mate a GM diesel to a Land Cruiser 4 speed manual or automatic transmission. The GM V8 supposedly weighs about as much as a big block, so pretty close to the weight of a 2F. The L65 is found in C/K 2500HD trucks, C/K 3500 trucks and C/K 2500 Suburbans. The L56 is found in C/K 1500 trucks. C/K 2500 LD Trucks, K1500 Blazers/Tahoes/Yukons, and C/K 1500 Suburbans. The 6.2l is found in all pickups and Suburbans, and in Chev/GMC P30/P3500 step vans. The 8th digit in the VIN of the donor vehicle indicates the motor type: MODEL DESIGNATION LETTER 6.2L C 6.2L J 6.5L Y 6.5LT (L56) S 6.5LT (L65) F The GM 5.7l is without a doubt the worst diesel engine ever cobbled together. It is the Olds 350 gas block that was converted to diesel. Probably 99% of these motors have been blown apart for at least 10 years, but some may still be kicking around. If someone offers you one, they are NOT your friend. A slightly more rare engine that I see as being a better match to a Land Cruiser is a Cummins B3.9 litre turbo diesel. It was used in among other things, Ford E350 cube vans, and Case 580 Tractors. PowerMark used to offer a conversion kit (p/n RK9525G) that was designed to allow you to bolt in a B3.5/5.9 in place of a GM 292 I6 or 350 V8 in GMC cube vans. In order to put this engine into a LC using the stock transmission, you would simply need to get the motor mounts/bellhousing Advance Adapters sells for putting a V8 in and use the Cummins engine instead, as well as possibly having to modify the supplied intake system and radiator hoses. Unfortunately, PowerMark has now gone out of business. Fleet Supply has bought up the remainder of their stock and plans to continue production. They also plan to introduce a kit for Chev/Ford pickups. The kits should be available from your friendly neighbourhood Cummins dealer. I think the Cummins B5.9, as used in Dodge Ram is definitely too heavy to put into a 40 series, and is a little heavy for a 55/60/80 series. It is also a little on the long side. The above mentioned kit would also work for a B5.9. The best diesel swap into an FJ40 I've ever seen is the Isuzu 3.9l diesel, model number 4BD1T. Two of its applications were in Isuzu NPR series cab-forward trucks, and LINK-BELT LS2700CII (4BDIT). I also believe it was used in the GM Forward 3000-4000 series trucks. There are two paths for putting an Isuzu diesel into a Land Cruiser. The first involves a factory Isuzu adapter bellhousing. It is designed to mate any SAE #3 flywheel cover to a GM manual transmission with a 5.125" bore (SM420). The bellhousing bears the casting number WF 150015. Unfortunately, this bellhousing has recently been discontinued. There are still some around--try your local Isuzu dealer. A better option is an adapter ring. I have yet to locate a commercial source for these--the one I've seen was made years back by a company that has since gone out of business. The ring allows a GM bellhousing with a 350 bolt pattern to be attached to an SAE #3 flywheel cover. Using the adapter ring, it would be possible to attach the 4BD1T directly to a Toyota transmission with an Advance adapter Chev->Toyota bellhousing. 18.2.1 Isuzu Engine Specs ------------------------- DISP (INDUST) TORQUE COMP MODEL (CC) CYL FUEL BHP* FT-LB RATIO 4BD1 3856 4 DD 88@2800 181@1600 17.1 4BD1T 3856 4 TDD 105@2500 240@1600 17.5:1 6BD1 5785 6 DD 142@2800 289@1600 17.5:1 6BD1T 5785 6 TDD 163@2500 375@1800 17.5:1 MODEL BORE STROKE DRY WT LENGTH WIDTH HEIGHT (IN) (IN) (LBS) (IN) (IN) (IN) 4BD1 4.02 4.64 710 35.3 24.4 30.4 4BD1T 4.02 4.64 719 35.2 25.3 33.2 6BD1 4.02 4.64 1003 44.6 24.6 33.2 6BD1T 4.02 4.64 1089 44.6 26.4 37.4 *Figures according to SAE J1349 Gross BHP test. "Automotive" BHP of the 4BD1T for instance is actually 121@3000. 18.2.2 Cummins Engine Specs --------------------------- DISP TORQUE DRY WT LENGTH HEIGHT BORE MODEL (CC) CYL FUEL BHP FT-LB (LBS) (IN) (IN) 4BT3.9 39xx 4 TDD 105@2500 260@1500 705 30.1 35.6 4BTA3.9-120 39xx 4 TDDA 120@2500 302@1500 725 30.1 35.6 6AT3.4 3434 6 TDD 120@3600 221@2000 665 32.9 31.7 6BT5.9-160 59xx 6 TDD 160@2500 400@1500 880 39.6 36.8 6BTA5.9 59xx 6 TDDA 180@2500 451@1500 905 40.7 36.8 18.2.3.1 GM Diesel Specs ------------------------ YEARS DISP STOCK TORQUE COMP MODEL AVAIL (CC) CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO 5.7L 57xx V8 ID ..... ...... ...... 6.2L -94 62xx V8 ID 150 250@2500 ...... 6.5L 94- 65xx V8 ID 170 290@2000 ...... 6.5LT (L56) 94- V8 TID 180@3400 360@1700 21.5:1 6.5LT (L65) 94- V8 TID 190@3400 385@1700 21.5:1 18.2.3.2 GM Diesel Swap Specifics - Aaron Leach (AARONL@corel.com) ------------------------------------------------------------------ The GM 6.2L mounts very similarly to a GM gas V8. The back of the engine has the same bolt pattern as the 350 Most of the same directions that come with the small block kit from Advance The engine can mount so that it is about three inches from the radiator, and then the centerline of the engine was placed at 12 inches from the left inside frame rail to the center of the engine--essentially the same as the small block Chevy engine. One thing to remember is that the 6.2 is a wide engine. The stock steering box has to be removed to make the engine fit. Installing a power steering conversion, such as the Saginaw box is required. Also, because of the width of the engine, the steering shaft should be lengthened an extra eighteen inches. That prevents the U-joint from hitting the exhaust manifold. The cruise control mechanism can be removed, and part of the air intake system must be removed for hood clearance. There is a spacer between the engine mount and the block that is needed to fit the engine properly. What You Can Use, and What You Cannot Here is a list of things you can use with the conversion, and what you cannot: -you can use all GM Chevy transmissions: TH350, TH400, 700R4, SM420, SM465, etc. -you cannot use a gas engine torque convertor, you have to use a diesel one. -you cannot use a gas engine flex plate or flywheel. The diesel's is balanced. -Also, when using a flex plate, there are two kinds, a lock-up type, and a non lock-up type. Each uses a different torque convertor. -the injector pump has an overflow tube. You will need to run a return line to the fuel tank. You will want to install a diesel tachometer. These run off the alternator. Diesels use their own starters--you will not be able to use a gas engine one. Diesels also use their own engine cooling fan. One battery will probably fit, but two might be difficult. You can get a box made that fits behind you seat that will hold two batteries. It might be wise to already have a lift installed because the drive line might hit the oil pan. With the automatic transmissions, you might have drive line problems in the rear. My drive line for the TH350 is going to be about twelve inches. The TH400 and the 700R4 are about 5 inches longer than the TH350. You will need a filter that takes water out of diesel fuel. The diesel RPMS top out around 3500. An over drive transmission, higher differential gears, or larger diameter tires will help with this situation. Wiring the engine up The engine is quite easy to wire up. First of all, the wires going to the starter are the same as they are on the gas engines. Secondly, the coil wire goes to the injector pump. There are two prongs on the injector pump. Which ever prong you put the coil wire on, you will need to jump a wire from there onto the other prong. You can throw the coil away, you will not need it. Also, the wire that went from the coil to the distributor is not needed. To wire the glow plugs up, you can run a wire to a push button switch, then from there to two 70 amp relays, one for each side of the engine. If you don't want to hold the button down to control the glow time, you can add a timer relay. You can also hook this up to the ignition. The only difference is that the ignition would be your push button switch part of it. 18.2.4 Nissan Diesel Specs -------------------------- DISP TORQUE COMP MODEL (CC) CYL FUEL BHP FT-LB RATIO SD33T 3245 6 T?D 101@3100 175@2200 21:1 MODEL BORE STROKE DRY WT LENGTH WIDTH HEIGHT (IN) (IN) (LBS) (IN) (IN) (IN) SD33T 3.27 3.94 FUEL ID - Indirect Injection Diesel DD - Direct Injection Diesel T - Turbo A - Aftercooled (erroniously called Intercooled by most) 18.3 Gas Engine Conversions --------------------------- Ok, you've put up with my compression-ignitionist rantings for a while and have made it into the section that interests most people. There are some advantages to replacing your F series motor with a newer V8. The V8 weighs 250lb less than the F, which leads to a big improvement in your power to weight ratio. Because the newer motor is a little more effecient, and also because of the weight savings, you will get improved fuel economy. The engine that is most commonly swapped into a Land Cruiser is the venerable Chev 350. Other conversions, in approximate decreasing order of quantity are Chev 307, 383, 305, 400, 327, Ford 302/5.0l, Chev 454, Pontiac 455, Chev 4.3l V6. Swapping a Chev 235 I6 into a Cruiser is pointless because it is basically identical to an F. The Chev 292 may be a worthwhile swap for those who want that "authentic straight-six feel" Unfortunately, this engine is quite fuel hungry like the 2F and parts aren't nearly as common as for the 350. Even though distributor placement at the front of Ford engines is probably better than the rear placement of Chev small block distributors, and the Ford 302 weighs 80lb. less than a 350, Chev engines are probably used ten times more frequently. The big reason is parts availability. While ford was wandering around in Windsor and Cleveland, the 350 changed very little over the years. For that reason, a plain 350 is probably the easiest choice for an engine conversion. There are a variety of conversion kits available and the engine can be found in both carburated and fuel injected forms. For those looking for more low-end torque, a 383 is probably the best choice. A 383 is a 350 that's been bored .030 over and uses a 400 crank and 350 connecting rods. A 383 is superior to a 400 because the bore of the 400 is too large. There's no space left between the cylinders for water jackets so cooling is compromised. There are only a couple of reasons for putting a motor bigger than a 383 or even building a high horsepower 350. They are if you intend to put on tires that are so large that re-gearing to return the tire:gear ratio to something approaching a stock level is impossible, if you drive your truck in deep mud, snow, or sand, or if you never quite managed to get that adolescent desire to try to peel your tires off your rims out of your system. On the other side of the coin, the 4.3l Chev 6 is probably a little too small for even a 40 series. Key engine design features to keep in mind are the bore and stroke. Engines with a larger bore than stroke (oversquare) are better suited to high-RPM operation, while engines with a larger stroke than bore are better for lugging down at low RPMs. A longer stroke also allows for a lower compression ratio and lower octane fuel. Once you have decided which engine you want to use, the next step is to choose an adapter type. Depending on the engine you have selected, you can either use a bellhousing from Advance Adapters, a Ranger torque splitter, or a Mark's Adapter. In order to use an Advance Adapter bellhousing, the flywheel from the engine manufacturer must be used. In the case of small block engines, the manufacturer's heavier truck type flywheel is required and is advantageous because it will allow for smoother operation of the engine at lower revs. The advantage of using an Advance Adapter bellhousing is the low cost of the adapter itself. This savings leads to higher expenses elsewhere though. Because the Advance Adapter bellhousing is approximately the same thickness as the stock Toyota one, the engine, transmission, and transfercase will have to be shifted forward to all sufficient firewall clearance. The movement of the transfercase will require modified driveshafts. The use of the Advance Adapter bellhousing will also require a custom clutch only offered by Advance Adapters. It's probably best not to use a clutch that is not univerally available. The use of a Ranger Torque Splitter provides several advantages. Foremost, you get a 27% overdrive for lower revs on the highway. You can use a stock Chev/Ford bellhousing and clutch. The Torque splitter functions as an adapter. it can be ordered with Chev or Ford bolt and inputshaft patterns on the front and Toyota input shaft patterns on the back. Finally, the 7-8" of extra thickness of the Ranger means that driveshaft modifications are not required. The Ranger is said to put the fan a little closer to the radiator than ideal though. The third option is the Mark's adapter. Their kit consists of a bellhousing and flywheel that are 3-1/2" deeper than stock. The extra depth places the engine perfectly with no driveshaft modifications. The extra thick flywheel also provides extra damping to allow for smoothly lugging down the revs in the rocks. 18.3.1 GM Engine specs ---------------------- YEARS DISP STOCK TORQUE COMP MODEL AVAIL (CC) CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO 231 B ..... .... V6 G ..... ........ ..... 252 B ..... .... V6 G ..... ........ ..... 235 C ..... .... I6 G 120-150 ........ ..... 250 CPOB ..... .... I6 G ..... ........ ..... 262 75-76 .... I6 G 110 ........ 8.5:1 265 55-57 .... V6 G 162-225 ........ 8.0:1 265 C 94- 4343 V6 G 163 ........ ..... 265 C(HO) 94- 4343 V6 G 200 ........ ..... 267 C 79-81 .... V6 G 115-125 ........ ..... 283 C 57-67 .... V8 G 135-230 ........ 8.5:1-11.0:1 283FI 292 C ..... .... I6 G ....... ........ ..... 302 C 67-69 .... V8 G 290 ........ 11.0:1 305 C 76-94 .... V8 G 125-230 ........ 8.5-9.0 307 C 68-73 .... V8 G 115-195 240@2000 8.5-9.0 327 C 62-69 .... V8 G 150-235 ........ 8.8-11.3 327FI C .... V8 EFI-G 370 350 C 67- .... V8 G 145-300 300@2000 8.5-11.0 350 C ..... .... V8 EFI-G ....... ........ ....... 383 C NEVER .... V8 G ....... ........ ....... 400 C 70-80 .... V8 G 150-180 ........ 8.5-9.0 454 C ..... .... V8 G ....... ........ ....... 455 P ..... .... V8 G ....... ........ ....... 500 V ..... .... V8 G ....... ........ ....... MODEL BORE STROKE WEIGHT LENGTH HEIGHT (IN) (IN) (LBS) (IN) (IN) 235 C 3.56 3.96 262 C 3.671 3.10 ...... ...... ...... 265 C 3.730 3.00 550 25 26-1/2 267 C 3.500 3.48 ...... ...... ...... 283 C 3.875 3.00 550 25 26-1/2 302 C 4.000 3.00 550 25 26-1/2 305 C 3.736 3.48 ...... ...... ...... 307 C 3.875 3.25 550 25 26-1/2 327 C 4.000 3.25 ...... ...... ...... 350 C 4.000 3.48 550 25 26-1/2 400 C 4.125 3.75 550 25 26-1/2 B - Buick C - Chev O - Oldsmobile P - Pontiac V - Cadillac 18.3.2 Ford Engine Specs ------------------------ YEARS DISP STOCK TORQUE COMP MODEL AVAIL (CC) CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO 260 V8 G 164@4400 258@2200 8.8:1 289 64- V8 G 200-271 282-312 9.3:1 300 4916 I6 G -150 ..... ..... 302 68- 4948 V8 G 210-235 295-318 8.5:1 302 4948 V8 EFI-G ..... ..... ..... 351W 69- .... V8 ..... 250-300 355-380 8.6:1 351C .... V8 ..... ..... ..... ..... 351M .... V8 ..... ..... ..... ..... 460 .... V8 EFI-G 250 355.. ..... MODEL BORE STROKE WEIGHT LENGTH HEIGHT (IN) (IN) (LBS) (IN) (IN) 260 3.8 2.87 289 4 2.87 302 4 3.0 425 351W 4 3.5 510 351C 550 351M 550 400M 550 460 18.4 Transmission Swaps ----------------------- The three domestic transmissions most commonly swapped into a Land Cruiser are the SM420 (used in Chev trucks until 1969) SM465 (used in Chev trucks from 1969- 1992) and NV4500 (used in GM and Dodge trucks from 1992-) MODEL MAKER OFFERED IN DATES SPD 1ST 2ND 3RD 4TH 5TH R SM420 Muncie GM Trucks 47-67 4 7.05 3.57S 1.70S 1.00S 7.05 SM465 Muncie GM Trucks 68-92? 4 6.54 3.58S 1.70S 1.00S 6.09 NV4500 New GM Trucks 92-94 5 6.34S 3.44S 1.71S 1.00S 0.73S 6.34 Vent- Dodge Trucks 92- 5 5.61S 3.04S 1.67S 1.00S 0.74S 5.61S ure gear GM Trucks 94- 5 5.61S 3.04S 1.67S 1.00S 0.74S 5.61S MODEL LENGTH BORE (IN) (IN) SM420 10.5 4.686 SM465 12.0 5.125 NV4500 12.0 5.125 Legend S following a gear ratio indicated synchronized The SM420 is probably the most popular transmission swap for a LC because of its extremely low first gear. It also has the advantage of being virtually a direct bolt-up to a three Toyota 3 speed bellhousing. All that is required is some minor drilling, a pilot bearing adapter, and a throwout bearing sleave, and an adapter and spud shaft to go between the transmission and transfer case. The biggest disadvantage with the SM420 is parts availability. Because the transmission hasn't been made in almost 30 years, many of the parts have been discontinued. Adapting the transmission to a truck that formerly had a 4 speed transmission is also a bit more involved, requiring either an adapter bellhousing or a modified 3 speed bellhousing to be fitted. The bolt pattern and bore of the SM465 is different so it will not bolt up to either the 3 speed or 4 speed bellhousing. Although it has a higher first gear ratio, this transmission definitely a better than the swap for those removing a Toyota 4 speed because the parts will be readily available from your local GM dealer. The SM465 is also somewhat beefier than the SM420. The NV4500 is probably the ultimate domestic transmission. It has both granny low and overdrive in a package that is approximately the same length as an SM420. It is built to handle high horsepower and torque so the internals are very strong. The big drawback for this transmission is that because it is so new, it is very rare in junkyards. It is also extremely popular which drives the price up. The early GM unit is the hardest to find. Probably the ultimate setup is the Early GM/Late GM and Dodge hybrid which gives you the low first gear of the early GM unit combined with the better third gear ratio and synchronized reverse of the Late GM/Dodge transmission. Of course, all the above mentioned transmission swap will require driveshaft length changes. If you swap a domestic transmission in along with a domestic engine, matters are simplified. You just have to find the domestic bellhousing that will fit your engine and has the correct bore for your desired transmission. 18.5 Transfer Case/Axle Swaps ----------------------------- Swapping a non-Land Cruiser transfer case into your truck is a difficult proposition. This is due to the fact that all but the very early Land Cruiser axles have both differentials offset to the passenger's side. Virtually all domestic vehicles have the front differential offset to the driver's or passenger's side while the rear differential is centred. If you use a domestic transfer case with Land Cruiser axles, you will wind up with a two-plane driveshaft angle. Apparently, the axle housing can be reversed to decrease the angle, but this is still a very unadvisable setup. If a domestic transfer case is required, the axles should be replaced as well. Dana 60s and up are the only axles that are comparable/superior in strength to the stock Land Cruiser axles. Reverse-cut Dana 60s have the pinion located above the centreline of the ring gear and will result in somewhat improved driveshaft angles in trucks with a great deal of lift. 19.0 Maintenance/Modifications ============================== 19.1 Aluminum Tubs - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ----------------------------------------------------- I've got an Aluminum tub on my Cruiser and I love it. It sure beats having things fall out the rust holes in the back and getting a spray of water on you from where the rear wheel wells used to be :) There are two schools of thought when it comes to tubs: Retain the steel sills (my style) Description/Materials: The steel sills around the doors and along the top of the tub were retained (the remainder of the sheet metal is cut away with an air nibbler) Mine goes from the firewall back. My tub is all 1/8" Aluminum plate with bits of 6061-T6 1/8" wall structural (round corner) square tubing/channel for body mounts and gas tank strap mounts. Cost: Mine cost me CA$2400 (US$1700+/-) but that included a new fuel tank & sender, and I also got a "better shape than mine" hard top thrown in for free (a one-time lucky break for me) Keep in mind that my tub was for the body style with the gas tank under the floor and required quite a bit of bending on a hydraulic brake to make the right shape. Advantages: + Doors and hard top fit properly + Slightly more body rigidity + Sides are held on with pop rivets + a few tack welds and can be easily removed/replaced if damaged Disadvantages: - Steel can continue to rust along the edges until pop rivets securing aluminum to steel pull out (requires finding some steel sqaure tubing with the same OD as the sill's ID shoving it in and re-riveting--I'm probably going to have to do this soon on the driver's side at least) - not a "bolt-on" installation - requires a reasonably skilled sheet metal worker to cut old steel away nicely - not widely available. Most tubs in this style are home made/made by local Cruiser gurus and are therefore harder to find (Mine was built by a Cruiser fanatic that used to make aluminum boats for a living) All aluminum (style manufactured in Kelowna--Aqualu/Land Cruiser Solutions) Description/Materials: One note: The tubs I'm talking about is made by a Kelowna, B.C. company called Aqualu Industries. These are sold east of the Mississippi by Land Cruisr Solutions. Anyways, on with the description: The entire tub behind the "drip rail" that runs down in front of the door hinges is hacked away. The sills are replaced with 6061-T6 1/8" round-edge... which leads to the door/hard top fit problems described by Gary Bjork. Here's a quickie ascii illustration of the cross-section of the lower part of the door and sill to show you: Stock doors/sills Kelowna style body | | | | |Door| | | | __/ | __/ | |O || | |O +------+ Legend |_|O / |__ |_|O | | O = Rubber Seal / | | | / Sill | | | |______| |______| | | | | As you can (hopefully) see, the stock doors fit flush into the body whereas the "Kelowna Style" stick out by an amount equivalent to the width of the bottom edge of the door (about 1/2"?) The hard top also sticks out by this by the width of the bottom edge. The tub is made from material thinner than 1/8" (3/32", I think) and is available with both checker and smooth sides. If you only run a soft top and soft doors, the fit problems I described above will not really be noticable. There is now a version of the tub available with "factory-style" sills. It costs extra though. Cost: NO SILLS SILLS EARLY-78 CA$1955 (~US$1396) CA$2475 (~US$1768) 79-84 CA$2346 (~US$1675) CA$2865 (~US$2046) Advantages: + minimal cutting - true bolt-on installation + don't have to worry about sills rotting away + if your're truck has been rolled/crashed you instantly get a straight tub! + much easier to move to a newer/better Cruiser if you buy one at a later date Disadvantages: - door/top fit problems outlined earlier (if you cheap out and don't get sills) - completely welded together - if you tweak it, you have to live with it So there you have it, everything you ever wanted to know about aluminum tubs (but were afraid to ask) ALMOST. Here's a few details that apply to both styles: Aluminum is MUCH more difficult to paint than steel. A good finish would probably require going to a high-end paint shop (Your local "Oh-Oh, better get a new paint job" place probably couldn't handle it) Aluminum tubs can't really be fixed if they're severly kinked/dented (or at least not as well as a conventional steel sheet metal body. I talked to my insurance agent about mine and she thought that replacing my tub in the event of an accident would be covered under the same heading as aluminum pick-up canopies. Aqualu makes aluminum front fenders, but they were kind of ugly IMHO. Because they could only roll and not stamp the fenders, they couldn't duplicate the compound curves at the front of the fender and just left off the last little curve on the front of the fender. They sold for something like CA$395 a pair Finally, for those of you that don't like aluminum, I have seen a replacement tub made out of 3/16" STEEL! I suspect it would have made the truck into a complete slug, however resistance to small arms fire would be a huge advantage to anyone living in LA/Washington/Detroit :) 19.2 Breather Relocation - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ----------------------------------------------------------- NOTE: It's been a while since I've done this and may have forgotten something, also, this is the last article I typed in for v1.0 so I'm pretty fried. If I say something that seems wrong, it probably is. Anyone who tries these directions, drop me a line and let me know if I missed anything. Depending on what year and model of Cruiser you own, you may have the pop valve axle breathers mounted directly to the axle housing. If you truck ever sees any water off-road (or good flooding on road) this set-up is inadequate. The check valves always become clogged. This either allows water to stream into your axle housing, or worse, does not allowing your axle to breathe which results in blown seals which THEN let water in. For water over bumper height, even Toyota's breather hoses that reach up to the frame height aren't enough. Fortunately, replacing your breathers is both simple and cheap. First you must remove the check valves. Before doing this, ensure the area around the breather is free of mud/grime--you don't want to have any grit falling into the breather hole and wearing your ring and pinion. Once the valves are out, check the threads to determine if they're fine or coarse (all breathers after 1971 are fine thread. Some rear breathers from prior to 71 are coarse. I am not sure if this procedure would work with coarse threads so attempt it at your own risk. Temporarily pop the valves back in and go to your hardware store. You will need 2 1/4" brass right angle NPT to compression fittings, 2 plastic ferrules and hose inserts, 15' of 1/4"OD nylon hose (poly will do in a pinch, a T junction with compression fittings on all sides, a whole whack of small *zip-ties, a 10mm tapping die (same thread as your breathers), some 3/8" washers, 2 M10x1.25 nuts, 3" of 1/4"ID rubber hose (like fuel line), 2 1/4" hose clamps, cutting fluid (oil will do in a pinch), Blue Loctite 242, and (recommended but not required) 15' of corregated wire loom covering that will fit over the pipe. If your axles are the style where the rear breather comes up through the brake line T, you will also need a 1-1/2" length of 3/8" brass pipe (often available as a pre-threaded length) and a fitting for joining the pipe to the right angle fitting. The following procedure applies to situations where the brass pipe and coupler are not required. 1. Re-cut the NPT threads on the angle fittings with a 10mmx1.25 die. If you don't have a die handle, you can always use a wrench, but this increases your chances of cross-threading. Don't forget 1 turn forwards, 1/2 turn back, and use lots of cutting fluid. You may have a couple of threads that are messed up because of interference between the metric and NPT threads, but it should still be strong enough. 2. Coat the threads on the fitting with Blue Loctite 3. Thread a M10x1.25 nut onto the right angle fitting. 4. Thread the right angle fitting into the axle until it won't go any farther (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN -- the brass is nowhere near as strong as steel) 5. Back the fitting off until it's pointing in the direction you want. 6. Tighten the bolt. The following procedure applies to those who bought the brass pipe and coupler 1. Coat the coupler's threads with Blue Loctite. Thread the pipe into one end and the right angle fitting into the other. 2. Re-cut the threads on the pipe as per #1 above. Cut approximately 5/16" of threads. 3. Coat the pipe's threads with Loctite 4. Thread the assembly into the axle. (If tightens pointing in the wrong direction, remove it and try shimming it with a washer so it points in the right direction) Once the angles are in place, you can put on the hose. 1. Remove the compression nut and brass ferrule from the right angle fitting. 2. Plan out the routing of your hose. It is best to have it travel up along the brake lines, that way there is less of a chance of the hose being damaged by branches etc under the truck. A good location for the T is right against the brake line L that is mounted on the frame below the master cylinder. True hard-core types who don't mind the smell of gear oil can route the line that comes off the T through the firewall into the passenger compartment for maximum fording ablility. Otherwise if you're not equipped with a snorkle, plan to send the line up along the fire wall to hood height. Those lucky enough to have snorkels should route the line up the back side of the snorkle. 3. Once you've planned the route, cut the plastic tubing and loom cover to the required lengths. 4. Slide the compression nut and a plastic ferrule onto each end of the hose. 5. Place the hose inserts inside each end of the hose to prevent it from being crushed when you tighten the compression nuts. 6. Slide the hose into the angle fitting, and tighten the compression nut. 7. Route the hose along the frame of the truck and attach the other end to the T. 8. Snap the loom cover over the hose and zip tie it securely to the frame or a brake line along its whole length. 9. Place the compression nut ferrule and hose insert onto one end of the hose that is to be routed up along the firewall/into the passenger compartment/up the snorkle and tighten it down. 10. Thead/stuff the one of the old breather pop valves into the rubber hose and clamp it securely with a hose clamp. 11. Fit the other end of the rubber hose over the top of the plastic tubing and clamp it with the second hose clamp. Now your axles are waterproof (if the seals are good :) Unfortunately, there are still two breathers you must worry about for SERIOUS fording. They are on the transfer case and steering box. Unfortunately, I haven't gotten around to relocating these yet. All that will be required when I do this is splicing two more T's into the plastic tubing. The steering box should require a procedure identical to the one outlined here, but I think the transfer case may have a different sized breather plug and require something more creative. 19.3 G.M. HEI distributors for F/2F Motors - David Dannenberg (suedave@pond.com) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Unfortunately, what I present here will not allow a one banana mechanic to go to spend twenty bucks at a junk yard then an hour under the hood and end up with an HEI in his FJ--not one that works anyway. This conversion can be either relatively simple or relatively cheap, but not both at this point. I'll explain below, but first a word or two about the shortcomings of the Toyota ignitions and the advantages of the HEI. The Toyota ignitions have one or a number of disadvantages, depending which particular distributer one is stuck with. The early units feature a points system, and a pretty lousy points system at that. Compared to a later GM points system for example they are a pain to set, and not of very good quality. Even good points systems have the disadvantage of physical wear of the contacts themselves as well as the rubbing block which makes contact with the lobe on the distributer shaft causing them to open and close Another aside: converting a Toy points to electronic. One can get around the problem of having points by obtaining a conversion kit from Crane Cams. This kit consists of a Hall effects switch utilizing some sort of electronic gizmo to do the job of the points (which is to send an electronic pulse back to the coil causing the field to collapse and the coil's stored energy to be sent out the wire to the distributer). This kit costs around a hundred bucks I think and is reputedly about a one banana installation. However, even conversion of the stock distributer to electronic leaves one with at least one and possibly two other inherent shortcoming of the Toy ignition. The Toy coil is pretty poor. It is comparatively weak (20,000 volts or something). The other problem with the Toy coil is that it doesn't saturate quickly enough so that at high RPMs it is not fully saturated when the point closes and causes it to discharge its energy. That is, at high speed, one doesn't even get the measly 20KV or whatever it is designed to produce. The performance problem created by this is high speed miss--failure of some of the plugs to fire every time they are supposed to. This may or may not be very noticeable in the pedal except maybe when under load such as when trying to blast on over that mountain pass, but it could be noticeable at the tail pipe (if one had a sniffer I suppose) and at the gas pump--well, the gas gauge anyway. The last problem with some Toyo ignitions, especially late electronic ones, is that they are, in common parlance, "smogged". That is, their advance curves are not set up to optimize performance as determined by acceleration, torque, and horse power, but to optimize emissions, especially at idle. Without getting into the details and nuances of this (which, like all of this, I have only rudimentary understanding of), the smogged distributors are set up so that at low RPMs the ignition is actually vacuum retarded, and such that the vacuum advance does not occur until much higher RPMs than would be optimal. For practical purposes this translates to that frightening feeling in the pit of the stomach one gets when trying to merge or pass on the highway in an FJ60--you know, 0-60 in five minutes while all you can see in your rear view mirror are one headlight and the letters A C K written backwards across part of an enormous radiator grille. The GM HEI can resolve all of these problems! (and it makes Julienne fries). I'll address them one at a time. The points issue becomes moot because, as the name implies, the HEI is all electronic. Again without getting into details that are both out of my depth unimportant for the purposes of this discussion, an electronic ignition accomplishes communication between the distributer and the coil with an electronic (read: not mechanical) device. The guts of the distributer contain a commonly available module held in place with two fasteners, a condenser, and a field coil. None of these parts move, so in theory at least, none of them wear. The only moving part is the rotor (and obviously the shaft to which the rotor is fixed). An aside: It is often said that the problem with an electronic ignition is that if it does fail, you are dead in the water (sometimes literally) with no hope of repair, whereas with a points system you always have the option of adjustment or replacement of components in the field (or stream, as the case may be). There is truth to this, but distorted truth. It is true that one can't pop open the ignition module (a thing about the size of a pack of Dentine--Chicklets for those of you in SA--with two wires and two screw holes), jam a wrench in there and fix it. But,the points system is many times more likely to fail in the first place. Second, it is no big deal to carry a spare module, field coil, and condenser in your glove box--even ones stripped off a junked vehicle. It is true that new these parts cost considerably more $ than a set of points, but over time one is unlikely to use one module for every, say, 50 sets of points and the ones from the junk yard will likely get you home. The second problem with Toy ignitions, that of weak spark and inadequate saturation, is solved by the HEI coil. According to the guys at K&A in California (see below), the HEI produces 90,000 volts (!) consistently at any RPM that we could imagine generating in one of our engines. I have also heard that the HEI coil produces 60,000 volts or even only 45,000 volts which is still double what the Toy puts out. This translates to hotter spark which translates to better cold starting, better running and adios to high speed miss. This alone is something one can feel in the pedal (and see in the decreased rate of decent of the needle on the gas gauge). With this much energy the spark plugs can be gapped way open--some people go as far as 65 or even 85, mine are at 45--which helps also (I think by making a bigger and thus more effective spark. Someone who knows please feel free to explain this). Yet another aside: I suppose that one could, if satisfied with the advance curve of the stock distributer, but desiring electronic reliability and HEI umph, perform the hall effects (Crane Cams) conversion mentioned above, and install the HEI coil only, along with good ignition wires and spark plugs and get about everything the full (coil and distributer) HEI conversion offers. That'd make it a two banana $125 job. Someone try this and report back to us all. The last Toy problem that one can resolve with the HEI is that of horrible advance curve. This is not solved by anything inherent in the HEI distributer except that there is such a wide range of advance parts available--springs and diaphragms--that the distributer can be built to do almost anything desired (even making julien fries at precisely at 2100 RPMs). This is one of the aspects of the conversion that jumps its rating from 2 to almost 4 bananas. It is also second aspect of the system that gives it such a great feel (the first being the voltage discussed above). Before briefly sketching the options and methods for converting to the HEI, I must tell you the performance gains. I can start cold without choking the engine (I do use the hand throttle a bit to facilitate warm up). I have what feels like way more torque and horse power. I can accelerate much faster and smoother than before and maintain speed more easily. Around town I shift gears much less frequently. Many corners and hills that I used to take in second gear I now take in third, corners and hills I used to take in third I now take in fourth. In many more instances than pre-HEI I can start out from a stop in second gear or overdrive first without slipping the clutch. Driving is just so much more pleasurable. I keep telling people that with the HEI and the OME I feel like I have a new vehicle. Those of you with the OME know what I mean. Now imagine that dramatic a change in your engine. (Remember though, that much of this drama is tied to the advance curve--if you have a comparatively unsmogged vehicle, your stock distributer may have a decent curve already, so the big change will be in reliability and high RPM performance, not low end torque and acceleration. Your challenge will be more to match your existing curve, not to improve it). So, I bet you are wondering how to accomplish this astonishing transformation of your slugabed TLC into a rocket ship--well decently performing vehicle anyway. There are four ways that I know of. I will describe each in descending order of cost and ascending order of reliability and work. 1. K&L Engineering In Mira Loma California (714) 735-4182 manufactures HEIs specifically for TLCs. By manufacture I mean that they take an HEI, strip it down, wind precisely engineered advance springs and mill precisely engineered cams to get the desired advance curve, then put it on a modified Sun distributer machine to check it all out. I believe that they will relocate the gear as necessary. They have done many TLCs, and if they have not done your year and model they may ask you to send your stock distributer so that they can check it in their Sun machine first to learn the factory curve which they will match and tweak in the HEI they will build for you. These guys have been building racing engines and using HEIs on all sorts of vehicles (VWs even) for years and really seem to know what they are talking about. DISCLAIMER: I have never actually purchased anything from them and do not work for or represent them. I did however pick their brains mercilessly whilst GMF Bob and I worked out our own approach to the conversion. The K&L distributer will cost in the neighborhood of $300. 2. Toyotas R Us in Salida Colorodo. (719) 539-7733 also will sell you an HEI for the TLC. They are also really nice guys whose brains I picked pretty thoroughly. They do a conversion using off the shelf parts and I think charge around $235 with a core. As far as I can tell they do not use a distributer machine or wind springs or grind cams to match advance curves. I did not get the feeling when I spoke with them (1-2 years ago by now) that they had not done any conversions in late model Cruisers. I do not think that they swap of move the distributer gear, but CHECK WITH THEM, DO NOT RELY ON MY INTERPRETATION OF CONVERSATIONS I HAD A LONG TIME AGO. Again, they are real nice people with a good reputation. They told me their system works. It is not, AFIK, and IMHO, as sophisticated as the work done by K&A. I have not actually purchased anything from them, and do not in any way represent them. 3. Wayne Kitter of Up & Over Innovations in Chester PA (610) 358-3179. He also offers an HEI for the TLC. He moves the gear, and sets it up (advance curve) using off the shelf components and a Sun machine. Sounds like he knows what he is doing. 4. Do it yourself. If you have been reading through all this expecting to come upon step by step part by part instructions now is your time to be disappointed. If you are expecting to get the general idea and be pointed in the right direction to get started, I hope and intend that the following will be useful to you. The swapping of GM parts onto F and 2F engines is possible because the F was essentially a "metricized" GM 225. The distributer is caused to rotate by a gear on its shaft which engages a gear on the engine's cam shaft. The tip of the distributer shaft also turns the oil pump. A 1977 CHEVROLET NOVA DISTRIBUTER will fit the 2F engine block in all respects. However, the gear on the Nova distributer is located in a slightly different place than the Toyota one. So the FIRST STEP, after getting a good reliable rebuilt '77 Nova distributer or getting a junked one and crossing your fingers IS TO RELOCATE THE TOYOTA DRIVE GEAR TO PRECISELY THE SAME PLACE ON THE GM DISTRIBUTER SHAFT AS IT WAS ON THE TOYOTA SHAFT. Use a caliper. Go to a machine shop. Do not mess around with this. I can tell you from painful experience that a few thousandths of an inch of difference in location is plenty enough to create force on the shaft pulling it down into the field coil gradually wearing through the insulation until it suddenly and catastrophically shorts out. Not big fun. Now that you have relocated the gear, the next step is to obtain or fabricate some kind of clamp to hold it in place. Straightforward--eyeball the situation and make something or ask at the parts source (store or junk yard) for something that will work Now the real fun begins. The advance curve on the '77 Nova is not correct for the TLC (at least it was not for mine). So get out a vacuums gauge and tachometer and chart your advance under various conditions with various commonly available springs and advance diaphragms (GM makes them incrementally from something like 5-25 degrees) and at various static timing settings. Watch your temperature gauge too as you road test it. I can tell you--again from painful experience--that if the timing is too far retarded you can run hot enough that it simply shuts down, even though it is smooth and the only other problem is lack of power (like duh, I know now). And of course too far advanced and it'll knock like crazy and you could even crunch a valve. Eventually you will hit upon a combination that will work for your vehicle. It will help to chart the performance of your stock unit too. This is already charted to some extent in the back of the Toyota engine manual. This is the science and voodoo of this project and is what the folks at K&L do on their machine. Personally, I think that is well worth 300 bucks, except that you are deprived of the pleasure of eventually getting it right yourself. I haven't mentioned the coil in awhile. Some HEI systems had the coil mounted on the distributer cap, some remotely. They are (for practical purposes), electronically equivalent. In an FJ60, a remote coil must be used because the bigger cap of the cap mounted units will not clear the line to the oil cooler. The cap mounted unit may fit on other models. The coil needs only the hot that supplies the toy coil, a ground, and the ignition wire to the cap. Easiest part of the conversion. GM F Bob and I have had it in our heads for a long time to make and market a kit to take the guess work out of doing the HEI to TLC conversion. It would contain stuff to make the gear relocation simple, and charts for selecting the correct advance and other parts. It would be inexpensive, intended more as a service to the community than to make a lotta' money. The buyer would source his or her own distributer and maybe some other stuff. Unfortunately GM F Bob is too busy with school and his family and I am too busy with work and my family to put this together anytime before next summer at the earliest. So if you are very patient, you may be able to get a kit for under $75 that will help you do an HEI conversion yourself in under two hours utilizing locally available parts. If you are ambitious, I think that the information I have provided will get you started. If you are in a hurry contact K&L and/or Toyotas- R-Us. If you have any questions or corrections, fire away and I'll do my best. One thing nice about this upgrade to your Toyota is that it is reversible: you can always go back to your Toy system in about a half hour's time. No permanent modifications are made to your Toy engine. 19.4 Glow Plugs - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) -------------------------------------------------- It is considerably cheaper to buy your glow plugs from somebody other than Toyota. NGK makes 2 models that fit B's, 3B's, and 2H's. The part number for the 24V version is Y197R. The 12V version is not available in North America. In the event that your glow plugs fail far from civilizaton, it is still possible to start your truck (as long as it is not too cold outside) Simply heat a largish pot of water until it is about to come to a rolling boil. Then pour the hot water over the intake manifold and injection nozzles of the truck. The truck should start as if you'd actually used the glow plugs. If the truck still won't start, try several more pots of water to heat the manifold further. To test glow plugs, remove the aluminum bus bar that connects them. With an Ohm-meter, check continuity of the plugs. If you detect an open circuit, the glow plug is no good. Glow plugs should be replaced as a set. If only one is replaced, it will put an unequal load on the others, causing them to burn out more quickly 19.5 Owner's Manual Maintenance Schedules - Toyota --------------------------------------------------- These are from an owner's manual. Although the manual was (C)Toyota, it also contained the instruction on the Table of Contents page: Please leave this Owner' Manual in this vehicle at the time of resale. The next owner will need this information also. Probably 75% of the original owners didn't follow the directions, so I'm going to reprint this section. It should also be noted that I don't agree with some of the times given--they should be considered as the MAXIMUM duration. The year of the owner's manual the information was taken from is indicated next to the engine model in the heading. E-mail me (RAMullen@wimsey.com) if your owner's manual lists different intervals. Maintenance operations: A - Check and/or adjust as necessary I - Inspect and correct or replace as necessary R - Replace, change, or lubricate 19.5.1 Gas Powered Vehicles (2F-1983) ------------------------------------- SERVICE INTERVAL: x1000mi 15 30 45 60 x1000km 24 48 72 96 months 12 24 36 48 BASIC ENGINE COMPONENTS 1 Valve Clearance A A A A 2 Drive belts (1) . I . I 3 Engine oil & filter 10000mi (16000km) or 8 months 4 Engine coolant (2) . . . R 5 Cooling & heater system hoses . . . I & connections 6 Exhaust pipes & mountings I I I I FUEL SYSTEM 7 Idle speed & fast idle speed (3) A . . . 8 Choke System . I . I 9 Air Filter . R . R 10 Fuel lines & connections . I . I 11 Fuel tank cap gasket . . . R IGNITION SYSTEM 12 Spark plugs . R . R 13 Ignition wiring . I . I EMISSIONS SYSTEMS 14 Charcoal cannister . . . I 15 Fuel evaporative emission control . . . I CHASSIS & BODY 16 Clutch Pedal I I I I 17 Brake pads & discs I I I I 18 Brake linings & drums I I I I 19 Brake lines & hoses I I I I 20 Steering linkage I I I I 21 Steering knuckle & chassis grease R R R R 22 Propeller shaft grease R R R R 23 Wheel bearing grease . R . R 24 Transmission transfer & diff. oil I I I I 25 Bolts & nuts on chassis & body I I I I (1) After 60000mi (96000km) or 48mo, inspect every 15000mi (24000km) or 12mo (2) After 60000mi (96000km) or 48mo, replace every 30000mi (48000km) or 24mo (3) After 30000mi (48000km) or 24mo, adjustment is not necessary 19.5.2 Diesel Powered Vehicles (B-1978) --------------------------------------- SERVICE INTERVAL: x1000mi 15 30 45 60 x1000km 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 months 6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48 BASIC ENGINE COMPONENTS 1 Valve Clearance . A . A . A . A 2 Drive belts . I . R . I . R 3 Engine oil 3750mi (6000km) or 3 months 4 Engine oil filter R R R R R R R R 5 Engine coolant (1) . . . R . . . R 6 Cooling & heater system hoses . I . I . I . I & connections 7 Exhaust System I I . I . I . I FUEL SYSTEM 8 Idle speed & maximum speed . A . A . A . A 9 Fuel filter . R . R . R . R 10 Feed pump filter . . . I . . . I 11 Injection pump governor diaphragm . I . I . I . I 12 Injection timing & nozzles . . . I . . . I 13 Air Filter . I . R . I . R 14 Fuel tank cap, lines, & connections . . . I . . . I PREHEATING SYSTEM 15 Glow Plugs . I . I . I . I CHASSIS & BODY 16* Brake & clutch pedal & parking brake I I I I I I I I 17 Brake linings & drums I I I I I I I I 18 Brake pads & discs I I I I I I I I 19 Brake lines & hoses I I I I I I I I 20* Brake fluid level I I I I I I I I 21 Vacuum pump oil hoses . I . I . I . R 22 Steering box, linkage, & gear box oil I I I I I I I I 23* Transmission transfer & diff. oil I I I R I I I R 24 Wheel bearing grease . . . R . . . R 25* Steering knuckle & chassis grease R R R R R R R R 26* Propeller shaft grease . R . R . R . R 27 Bolts & nuts on chassis & body I I . I . I . I 28 Emergency locking retractor system . I . I . I . I 29 Seat Belt Warning System . I . I . I . I Under severe driving conditions, service interval should be shortened as shown on the table below: MAINTENANCE ITEM OP INTERVAL UNDER CONDITIONS Engine oil R 3000km A,B,C,D,E Engine oil filter R 6000km A,B,C,D,E Exhaust system I 6000km A,B,C Air filter I 6000km D Brake linings & drums I 12000km A,B,C,D Brake pads & discs I 6000km A,B,C,D Steering wheel, linkage I 6000km C & gearbox oil Transmission transfer R 24000km A,B & differential oil Steering knuckle & chassis grease R 6000km C Propeller shaft grease R 12000km A,C Bolts & nuts on chassis & body I 12000km A,B,C CONDITIONS A: Pulling a Trailer B: Driving primarily short diantances C: Driving on rough roads D: Driving on dusty roads E: Driving in extremely cold weather 18.5.3 Diesel Powered Vehicles (3B-1983) ---------------------------------------- SERVICE INTERVAL: x1000mi 15 30 45 60 x1000km 24 48 72 96 months 12 24 36 48 BASIC ENGINE COMPONENTS 1 Valve Clearance A A A A 2 Drive belts I R I R 3 Engine oil 3750mi (6000km) or 3 months 4 Engine oil filter 7500mi (12000km) or 6 months 5 Engine coolant (1) . . . R 6 Cooling & heater system hoses . . . I & connections 7 Vacuum pump oil hoses I I I R 8 Exhaust pipes & mountings I I I I FUEL SYSTEM 9 Idle speed & fast idle speed (2) A A . . 10 Fuel filter . R . R 11 Feed pump filter . I . I 12 Injection pump governor diaphragm I I I I 13 Air Filter . R . R 14 Fuel lines & connections . I . I 15 Fuel tank cap gasket . . . R CHASSIS & BODY 16* Clutch Pedal I I I I 17 Brake pads & discs I I I I 18 Brake linings & drums I I I I 19 Brake lines & hoses I I I I 20 Steering linkage I I I I 21* Steering knuckle & chassis grease R R R R 22* Propeller shaft grease R R R R 23 Wheel bearing grease . R . R 24* Transmission transfer & diff. oil I I I I 25 Bolts & nuts on chassis & body I I I I (1) After 60000mi (96000km) or 48mo, inspect every 15000mi (24000km) or 12mo (2) After 30000mi (48000km) or 24mo, adjustment is not necessary Whenever you drive off-road through sand, mud, or water, check the following items as soon as possible: - Brake pads and discs - Brake linings and drums - Brake lines and hoses - Steering linkage and knuckles - Transmission, transfer, and differential oil - Wheel bearings - Propeller shafts 19.6 Ride Harshness - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ------------------------------------------------------ Short wheel base trucks ride rough and there is not a whole lot that can be done about it. There are a few options to soften the ride though. In order of "Bang-For-The-Buck" they are: 1. AVOID ADD-A-LEAFS! These will make your Cruiser ride like the axles are bolted directly to the frame. 2. Keep lifts as small as possible. The higher up you are, the more pitching motions of the truck are amplified. 3. Use the right shocks. Unless your truck is equipped with some bizarre ultra-heavy-weight PTO winch, stay away from 70-30 high-pressure gas shocks like KYB Gas-A-Justs. They'll give a brutal ride. Hydraulic shocks like the cheapest Trailmasters, or Rancho RS5000s are better, but their valvings still aren't right. RS9000s give you more valving range, but unless you're desert pre- running, only settings 1-3 are really useful. 4. If you have the Rancho 2.5" 7 leaf Lift, you can improve the ride quality by modifying the spring wrappers. Rancho makes the wrappers too tight for proper spring movement. If you pry open the outermost sets of wrappers, the ride will become softer and your articulation will increase by several inches. The remaining three wrappers are sufficient to prevent spring pack shifting. 5. If your truck is lifted, you can soften the ride by removing one of the short leaves. Unfortunately, removing a leaf will also decrease ride height and load capacity. 6. Front shackle reversal See the section on shackle reversals. 7. Polyurethane Bushings/Greasable Shackles Adding polyurethane bushings will not soften the ride but will improve handling by preventing the springs from twisting relative to the mounts. Polyurethane is also required for greasable shackles because dino-based grease will break down rubber bushings quickly. Using after-market shackles will further improve handling by resisting shackle twisting, while greasable pins allow the springs to move more freely to absorb bumps. 19.7 Saginaw Power Steering Conversion-Park Owens (rokcrwlr@rapidnet.com) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- The parts for a Land Cruiser power steering mod the way I did it include: 4 turn/4 bolt box from a salvage yard Potential Donors: Buick LeSabre '65-68 Buick Special '64-69 Camaro '67-74 Chev Passenger '65-70 Chevelle '64-69 Firebird '67-70 Grand Prix '70 Nova '68-69 Olds Jetstar 88 '64-66 Olds F85 '64-69 Pontiac Catalina, Ventura & 2+2 (w/o air) '67-68 Pontiac Catalina and Ventura (w/o air) '69-70 Tempest '64-69 pump; reman or salvage yard (2) #5-103X U-joints (Spicer) (2) #10-4-13 End Yokes (Spicer) (1) #10-3-13X Slip Yoke (Spicer) (1) #10-4-501SX Steering Yoke (Spicer) (3) feet of 3/16" key shaft (3) pieces of 3/16" key stock (1) #FWG34R Pillow Block (Federal-Mogul) (1) Dropped Pitman Arm (1) Tie Rod (1) Tie Rod End (2) Custom hoses When you remove the current drag link and center pivot steering assembly, you can cut the drag link to 26 inches, re-thread, and use for new tie rod between new pitman arm and existing Cruiser steering tie rod. If you or anyone else would like a copy of the templates I used to enclose the front frame rails on both the passenger and driver's side, please send a SASE envelope to me at: Dakota Territory Cruisers P O Box 2238 Rapid City, SD 57709 Notes: A three inch diameter hole will need to be cut/drilled through the cross member under the radiator on the driver's side...does not weaken it in any way. You'll also need some spacers made of gas pipe to put in the frame rail before you enclose it to keep it from being crushed when you tighten down the ps box. Also, if you get a 4 bolt box, you do not need any additional support for the ps box to the passenger side frame rail. 19.8 Shackle Reversals-Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ------------------------------------------------------- There are essentially two schools of design when it comes to Shackle reversals. The first is a bolt-on kit that involves some kind of drop bracket at the front of the frame and shackle hangers that bolt on below the frame. The second is more involved and results on the front perch being mounted directly below the frame, the shackle hanger being recessed into the frame, and the knuckles cut and welded to correct caster angles. Why go to all that trouble? In an effort to improve the high-speed on-road handling of FJ40s. There are two principals that help improve the handling of a vehicle with reversed shackles. On a vehicle with the shackles at the front of the front springs as the spring compresses vertically, the axle moves forwards. That means that as a tire hits an obstacle, the spring tries to push the tire forwards, harder into the obstacle. With the shackles at the back of the springs, when the tire hits an obstacle, the springs compress and the axle is essentially allowed to pivot up and backwards away from the obstacle. That action results in a less jarring ride. This action is only really noticeable at non-low range type speeds, that is, it makes no difference to rock crawling type activities. The second effect of reversing the shackles is that the momentum of the truck pulls the springs, rather than pushing them. The effect is minimized with perfect bushings and shackles, but any wear in the bushings will result in the shackles rocking side-side which the axle housing to yaw slightly which leads to vague handling. With the shackles on the rear of the springs, the shackles are forced to follow the axle housing, instead of vice versa, so wear is not as much of a factor. There are some drawbacks with reversing the shackles though. If the axle was left in the stock position and the driveshaft was left the stock length, when the springs compressed, the axle would move backwards, the splines in the slip joint would bottom out, and the output shaft of the transfer case would be punched out the back. To avoid this nasty mess, most shackle reversals either move the axle forwards, or require that the front driveshaft be shortened. The problem with simply pulling the slip joint further apart to make up for the increased movement of the axle is less engagement of the splines of the driveshaft. That will accelerate spline wear. Diesels naturally tend to wear out front driveshafts faster, either due to the vibration, or because of blow- by tube oil discharge diluting the grease. Spline life can be maximized by religious greasing of the slip joint, but it will never equal that of a stock- suspension geometry vehicle. There are essentially two styles of shackle reversals available: One designed by Land Cruiser Advanced Handling and manufactured by BTB, and a similar kit from Renegade Fabrication, and the other offered by Warden's Auto Repair and FabTech. I'll refer to the former as a "high" reversal and the latter as a "low" reversal for reasons that should become apparent. Both styles have advantages and disadvantages. BTB will soon be introducing a third kind of reversal that is essentially a hybrid of the two styles and will probably be the best option. The high reversal is basically a bolt-on kit (although it can be welded) It consists of two approximately 7" "towers" that attach to the front of the frame horns and that serve as the fixed point for the springs, hangers that bolt to the underside of the frame near where the fixed perches used to reside, and spacers for the bump stops. The large "towers" are required to maintain proper caster angle despite the fact that the perches are slung under the frame. If the towers were shorter, there would be excessive caster and the vehicle would be undriveable. The large towers and perches under the frame effectively lift the front of the vehicle 1.5" relative to the rear of the vehicle. The combination of moving the springs down from the frame, and dropping the bump-stops serve to prevent the driveshaft's slip joints from bottoming out. The main advantage of the high reversal is that a competant back-yard mechanic can undertake with less risk of damaging the handling of the vehicle. The main disadvantage of the kit is the towers. They decrease the approach angle slightly compared to the stock shackles. One effect is a bit of a mixed blessing. If a stock truck smacks the front spring eye/shackle hard into a rock, a bent or broken spring will result because the spring is being compressed axially to failure. With the high reversal, if the tower is smacked into a rock, the spring will not be affected, but it is possible for the unboxed passenger's side framehorn to buckle. The Advanced Handling/Current BTB and Renegade kits have some key differences. The former retains the springs in the stock direction. The latter flips the springs around so the military wraps are at the front, which is superior for a couple reasons. It means that the towers don't have to angle as far forwards to move the axle, which gives a slightly better approach angle. The towers also don't have to be quite as low because the military-wrapped eye of the spring actually comes up higher than the un-wrapped eye. Unfortunately, the Renegade kit also requires 4 degree shims. The low reversal should only be attempted by professionals. I think there only three shops that are currently doing it: BTB, FabTech, and Warden's Automotive. It is usually done as part of a spring-over conversion. With this reversal, the stock fixed spring perchs are relocated to the front of the frame horns. A hole is cut through the frame, and the tube for the shackle is welded in place. The allignment of the spring attachment points rotates the leading edge of the springs upwards, and if used with a stock axle housing would lead to excessive caster. To ensure proper caster, the knuckles on the axle housing are cut off, rotated, and re-welded. A properly done spring-over conversion also requires the knuckles to be rotated to tip the pinion up, so two problems are solved at once. Even with a spring-under configuration, this style of reversal greatly improves the approach angle. 19.9 Silicon Clutch Diagnosis-John Barron (jbarron@uvic.ca) ----------------------------------------------------------- Here is a test sequence for the fan. Apparently it is possible to replace the fluid in the fan clutch if the old has leaked out. It is a silicone oil/silicone based product from what I have been told, and is avaialable from Toyota AFAIK. There is a small valve inside the fan-clutch housing that opens by way of the thermostatic (bimetal) coil on the front of the housing. If the thermostatic coil is dead then ou will have to replace the whole unit or rob the part ([if it's even possible] from a wrecking yard unit). There is also a bearing in the clutch itself and that can wear out so beware. The viscous coupled fan on Toyota pick-ups and LCs will often change its sound as it engages and disengages. It will go from a gentle "whirrring" sound to a really loud "roar." Often the loud roar of the fan is noticeable for a few moments just after the engine has been started and then it quietens down considerably. This is *normal*. The fan on my LC almost never engages and so I don't often hear the roaring noise BUT the fan on my GF's pick-up (2L-T) does engage willingly and roars like crazy when the engine is running a little hotter than normal (ie: towing monstrous trailers up mountains in the summer)...the sound is always associated with a very prompt drop in the operating temperature of the engine down to the low side of normal--at which point the noise subsides. You can check the fan clutch operation by spinning [by hand] the fan when the engine is cold [and OFF]: it should spin about 1/3 to 1/2 a turn or so and then stop [sometimes a bit more]. There should be a bit of resistance to the movement. If the engine has just been run and is [a little] warm the fan will spin quite freely--this is okay. If the engine is really *screaming hot* AND there has been good flow of air over the radiator then the fan clutch *may* be engaged and should provide a decent amount of resistance to spinning. There are no really definitive tests for this procedure AFAIK. [Please note: the repeating the test sequence too many times in quick succession will cause the fan to spin more and more freely as you "test" it.] If your fan doesn't ever engage [no roar] and your engine runs hot you may have either: a defective fan clutch OR a blocked radiator OR a defective thermostat OR a combination of these three problems. The fan clutch needs hot air flow over the rad to engage... To check rad performance [in your back yard] you can drive until your vehicle has reached normal operating temperature and then mist the rad with water. If all the water evaporates then the rad is probably alright [as in not blocked]. If there are areas where the water evaporates and others where it doesn't [cold spots, usually vertical sections of the rad] then the rad needs to be serviced [power flushed or rodded-out]. You can also check for cold spots by using your hand but there is often not a lot of space between the grille and the rad --> and you could burn your hand. Be careful. A rad shop can remove your radiator and check the flow for you if you think that it's blocked. A sticking/dead thermostat will also cause the engine temperature to be higher than normal --this is another issue-- but it will also prevent the fan clutch from doing its job as very little hot coolant will be entering the radiator and no hot air will be passing over the fan....Your interior heater will be really hot [when temp set on high] and your rad cool-ish if this is the situation...replace the thermostat with a new one that is right for the climate where you live. Lastly: if the fan clutch is screwed you may be able to see the silicon fluid leaking from the clutch housing...then again, maybe not. A very few clutch fans I have seen are permanently engaged [jammed inside, bad bearing etc...]. In any of these situations you need to replace it. See your local Auto-Wrecker, Auto Parts store or Toyota parts person. 19.10 Steering Wandering-Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) -------------------------------------------------------- There are four basic components in the 40 series steering system that can wear out/go out of adjustment and cause steering slop/wandering. They are the tie rod ends, drag link end, centre arm, and steering box. A small amount of play in each of the tie rod ends can add up to a huge amount of steering slop. The only way tie rods should be able to be moved by hand is to rotate slightly on an axis that runs through the ball joints at each end of the rod. Even this motion should feel "snug." If the tie rod can be moved in any other direction the ball joints are probably worn and should be replaced. The drag link connects to the pitman arm that comes off the steering box. If the link can be moved in a fore-aft motion without the pitman arm moving, the end is out of adjustment. The adjustment procedure is fairly simple. Remove the cotter pin, and with a very large slot screwdriver tighten the end plug as far as you can, then back it out 1/2 turn. Finally, put in a new cotter pin. The centre arm probably accounts for most 40 series steering problems. It is located on the drivers side in front of the front frame crossmember. To test if your centre arm is worn or needs adjustment, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you stand in front of your truck. The centre arm shaft should only rotate about a vertical axis and not twist side-side. If the shaft twists, it may only be out of adjustment. To adjust it, loosen the lock bolt on top of the centre arm. Next remove the top cap. Check inside the arm for grease. If there is none, chances are you centre arm is scrap, but it's worth packing it and re-testing it anyways before you blow $100 on a re-build kit. Once you've filled the housing with grease, replace the top cap. Tighten it down as far as you can then back it of 1/4 turn. Then tighten the locking bolt. Finally, repeat the steering wheel turn test. If the shaft still twists, you need a re-build. The 40 series manual steering box will only fail to outlive you if one of two things happen: it's run without oil, or its not adjusted periodically. The only way for the oil to get out is if the sector shaft seal fails. Should this happen, you can limp home by packing the housing with grease until you have time to replace the seal. Adjustment of the steering box should only be attempted after reading the Toyota Steering or Body/Chassis manual. If you are running larger than stock tires, you will need a larger than stock steering dampener to stop wandering. IMHO, the Old Man Emu stabilizer is the way to go. It is a VERY sturdy bolt-in replacement for the stock stabilizer. The other alternative is to get something like the Rancho kit or Heckthorn "Big Yellow" which require adding brackets to the axle and tie rod. I believe the OME unit is superior because it puts the stabilizer higher up where it is less likely to be smacked by rocks or submerged in water, it doesn't introduce any strange off-axis forces in the tie rods and it doesn't require the cheezy clamp-on brackets. Steering can also be improved by using polyurethane bushings/aftermarket shackles as detailed in the section on Ride Harshness. 19.11 Spring Over Conversions-John Barron (John_Barron@bc.sympatico.ca) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Reverse, completely, your front leaves. No drilling, military wrap at the front. Spring in proper orientation. Put the spring bushing eyes into the frame at the back and at the rear of the front. You will have to carefully line the front ones up as the frame is not parallel to the centreline of the rig there. Box in the rear frame where the spring bushing eyes are going to go with 3/16" plate. Box in the right front frame horn with 3/16" plate and brace the corner a bit where it joins with the first front cross member. Lots of stress here. The front *differential flange* should sit at about 10 to 12 degrees after you have turned the ball ends. The caster ahould be set to 4 degrees. As it is now the diff flange is at about 3 deg (give or take) and the balls at about 1 degree (give or take) compared to the perches. SO this means that the ball ends should be turned about 12 degrees total (adding 3 deg caster and turning the diff up to 12 deg by adding 9 degrees of rotation). Be careful to turn the knuckle balls without knocking them sideways or you might affect the camber a bit. I used a large heavy pipe through the king pin bearing holes and tapped it around with a hammer--the pipe applied pressure to both ends of the ball at once and should not have messed up the caster. You should use a double cardan rear and front joint although you can get away without it if you're careful and only using the front drive at lower speeds. If you're careful you will get about 4" lift over where you are now (going up by SPOA and down by the recessing of the bushing eyes). This is not too much in the big picture and it gives you the advantage of the SPOA. One more thing...the rear springs are often re-drilled so that the rear axle is located rearward 1.5". This is not necessary if you get a set of FJ60 series front springs and use them at the rear instead. Just take a few measurements to be sure that this will work. And you will need OME big bushing to small bolt type (if your rig is before 1981) to fit the 60 series springs. Okay, yes they are welded on to the axle ends but it is not a butt weld. The balls are sleeved into the axle housing about two inches. The trick is to cut the welds out or cut *just* next to the welds and then turn the knuckle ends. Start with a stripped-down and clean axle housing. Then remove the shock mounts, the steering stop flanges, and the brake line brackets if they are in the way. What I then did was to take a hose clamp and place it up to the ball end as close to the weld as possible, I used this as a guide to scribe a line right next to the weld. I then took my 4.5" angle grinder with a cutting wheel (about 1/8" thick or so) and I carefully cut into the axle tube about 3/16" to 1/4" deep around the scribed line. I knew just how deep to go because I could see the difference in the metals and a very faint oily line where the knuckle ball and the tube meet. Make sure that your cut is complete all the way around and that you haven't either gone too deep or that you missed an area. I then checked to see that I had made a complete cut by gently tapping on the ball with a hammer to move the ball out about 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch. I then ground the welds around the ball smooth along an inch or two of circumference and polished them up with a sanding disc. From here I made a little calculation to see how many millimetres I would need to turn the balls around the circumference to get the number of degrees I needed. I found the axle that I was using to be about 80mm in dia so I calculated X number of mm around the circumference is Y degrees. I then carefully scribed a very faint straight line along the axle tube and the ball and another line on the axle tube to where I wanted the ball to be once the desired amount of turning had been achieved I then punched the lines with a very fine sharp punch to be sure they stayed. I then took a piece of 3.5' by about 1.5" dia tube and put it through the two king pin bearing holes and gently applied pressure as I tapped the tube with a hammer to rotate the balls. Once the scribed lines lined up I re-did my measurements and checkd to see if the amount of turning was correct. A few taps later it was perfect. I then double checked the angles with an angle finder and saw that I was right to about 1/4 of a degree (the accuracy of the angle finder). C=(pi)(dia) X= (3.14159265)(80) X=251.3274mm 360degrees/251.3274mm= 1.432394 degrees/mm 251.3274mm/360degrees= 0.6981317 mm/degree so 12 degrees required turning is (12)(0.6981317mm)= 8.37758mm around the circumference The tires, if you are going to go above 33", like to 35s, will rub on the front portion of the rear wheel well. Moving the axle back eliminates this trouble and is also good as it makes the rear shaft a little longer thereby slightly decreasing the operating angle of the driveshaft. 19.12 Transmission and Transfer Removal Tips-Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- The transmission and transfer case should be removed as a unit, even if you only need to remove the transfer case. The transmission will separate easily from the bellhousing whereas separating the transfer case from the transmission usually requires a puller. Removing the transmission also allows you to inspect the clutch and pilot bearing. Save your old large-eye rubber spring bushings. They are great for removing the shifter from your manual transmission. Instead of using two screwdrivers to push and twist (and scratch) the shift lever cap, use the bushing. First, remove the ball at the end of the shifter. Slide the bushing (narrow end down) to the base of the shifter. Then slide a 19mm or larger box end wrench (or the end of a large crescent wrench) down the shifter. Clamp a set of Vise-Grips on to the bushing tight enough to twist it, but not so tight as to clamp it to the shifter. Then while pushing down HARD on the box-end wrench, twist the Vise-Grips clockwise. The shift lever cap should pop right off. The pilot bearing should be replaced every time you remove the transmission as it is an inexpensive part that can cause major headaches if it fails. The easiest way to remove the pilot bearing is by making your own "hydraulic cylinder." This is much easier than it sounds. Simply push grease through the central hole in the bearing until the cavity behind it is filled. Then push a cylindrical object that isn't too much larger than the inner diameter of the bearing into the hole. The grease that is displaced should pop the bearing out. Putting the tranny back in is a tiresome process. An engine hoist is essential if you want to preserve your sanity. Jacking the tranny/transfer assmebly from below is virtually impossible. You should buy 3 M12x60x1.25 or so bolts to help you allign the transmission. Manouver the tranny into position so that the input shaft is through the throw-out bearing and at least one of the tranny-bellhousing holes is alligned (the lower passenger side one is a good place to start) Thread one of the longer M12 bolts through the tranny and into the bellhousing (be sure there's alot of thread going into the bellhousing so it won't tear out if it has to take some of the tranny's weight. Next, rotate the tranny about the bolt until another hole is alligned. Pop in another of your M12 bolts in. You may have to level the tranny a little before you can get the last bolt in. (Put it on the passenger's side--it's easier to remove) You should then be able to walk the tranny along the bolts until its right up snug with the bellhousing. It may take a little push to close the final 1/4" gap. If there is resistance before this point, chances are the tranny's input shaft is not going through the pilot bearing properly. BE CAREFUL. If you crush the pilot bearing, you'll have to repeat the whole removal/installation process! Once the tranny is in position, put one of the stock length bolts into the driver's side top hole. Finally, remove the allignment bolts one by one and install the stock bolts. 19.13 V8J40 Cooling Tips - Fred Welland (fwelland@prcrs.prc.com) ----------------------------------------------------------------- CONTRIBUTORS ENGINE FAN RAD USUAL TEMP Fred Welland 350 (400) 7 BLADE AIRCO 2F 190-230 Karl Klashinsky 350 Electric 5/6 CORE 200-210 Mike Bennett 350 5-CORE X-FLO 200-210 Mike Sousa 350 7 BLADE CADDY 4-CORE 185-200 TEMPERATURE RANGES The ideal maximum temperature for a SB Chevy in a Land Cruiser is 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The maximum allowable is probably in the 230-240 range. FAN TYPES Flex fans are generally regarded as the poorest type for extreme cooling. Clutch fans are the next worst Electrical fans are the next. They have two advantages: the ablility to be manually shut off during water crossings to prevent splashing, and greater fuel economy. However, a single electrical fan does not move enough air--a dual fan push-pull arrangement may be better though. It is generally agreed that some type of fixed pitch fan with many deep blades is the best. It will move the greatest amount of air, however, it will provide your truck with DC-3 on takeoff roll sound-effects and will function as an excellent screw in water crossings. Some sources of thes monster props are air conditioning suppliers and Cadillacs. WATER PUMPS & HOSES A high flow water pump can be good for as much as a 10 degree temperature drop. For extreme temperature duty, molded hoses tend to be more rupture-resistant than flexible ones. TEMPERATURE SENDER PLACEMENT In most cases, the sender is located on the side of the block between cylinders 1 and 2. LOWERING STOCK RADIATOR Piece of cake. I hoped I could just slide the radiator down in the u-shaped channel and drill some new holes. Nope, I couldn't get the radiator down enough: you might be able to. If not, take out the radiator and u-shaped mount. The radiator mounts to the u-shaped mount and the u-shaped mount sits on two brackets extending back from the front crossmember. Figure out where you want the radiator to sit (fore and aft) and then cut off enough of the existing brackets so the radiator and mount will move straight down. Figure out how low you want the radiator to sit and then weld two pieces of angle iron to the ends of the brackets to make a new lower shelf for the u-shaped mount to sit on. old mount: |__________ new mount: |______ |__________| |______| | | |___ When I got my radiator low enough, the corner of my u-shaped mount wanted to occupy the same space as my steering column shaft. I chopped a section out of the u-shaped mount for clearance around the steering shaft and just reinforced the inside of the mount with another small piece of steel. Looks funny, but it works. Bend, cut, weld, or something so you can reattach the side braces and your down the road! FAN SHROUDS Some claim that a fan shoud makes all the differnce in the world, however some there are also those that say installing a shroud had no effect. OIL COOLERS Adding an oil cooler should make a difference in your engine temperature because theoretically you now have two paths for heat to leave the engine. Adding an oil cooler has the advantage of increasing your oil capacity (although it will cost you more for an oil change) COOLANT ADDITIVES > Water Wetter is available from any Super Shops. It's $6.95/bottle. If they > don't have it in stock they will order it for you. Water Wetter is made by Redline. You can order it directly from them at 1-800-624-7958 if you can't find it locally. However, it may be subject to a minimum order. It works. 19.14 Which Wheels Work? - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) =========================================================== There are essentially four "periods" to consider when looking at which wheels your Land Cruiser will accept. They are: Early-75 drum brakes, 76-89 disc/finned drum brakes, 90-91 disc brakes, and finally 92+ four-wheel disc brakes. With the first two "periods", the ABSOLUTE maximum backspacing is 3.75" With that backspacing, chances are good that wheel weights that snap onto the lip of the rim (as opposed to sticking to the inboard/outboard faces) will rub on the tie rod ends--especially with 60 and 70 series. The IDEAL backspacing is 3.5"--that will give you lots of clearance. Early drum brakes are relatively easy to fit wheels wheel to along as the backspacing is correct. With disc brakes (as used on the 40, 60, and 70 series) and finned drum brakes (as used on the 45 series) even if you find a wheel with the right backspacing, there is still a chance it will not work. This is more of a problem with 16" rims than 15". The problem is a result of the cross-section of the "disc" of the rim. The followin will sort of illustrate the problem: |___| |___| \ \ ) \ | AXLE | AXLE | HUB | HUB ) / _/_ _/_ | | | | On disc-brake equipped trucks, the rounded "indent" of the rim on the left will hit the calliper, while the rim on the right will clear the calliper. On vehicles equipped with finned drum brakes, the profile of the trum is such that the rounded indent will push against the drum before the studs are fully tightened. Rims that do not clear will require wheel spacers, of which there are two varieties. The first tend to be relatively cheap, are made from cast pot-metal or aluminum, and tend to be about 1/4" thick. They are standard equipment on vehicles of the DEVIL! They are EVIL and will bring much unhappiness to you, your family, and all future generations bearing your name. They are totally incapable of withstanding the forces generated by off-road driving. The second type are much heavier duty. They're usually machined aluminum or steel, and are closer to 1" thick. They bolt onto your hubs, then have a set of their own studs that alternate with the stock ones. The rims are actually bolted to the spacers themselves, and not to the vehicle's hub. The following rims DEFINITELY work on all drum and pre-89 disc brake equipped trucks: Brazilian made 16x7" Mangels Series 10s (3.54" backspacing--3.75" backspacing is a tight fit) Brazilian made 16x7" Mangels Series 90s (not sure what the backspacing is rated as, but is actually ~3") Note that all steel Mangels sold in North America are now made in the US and WILL NOT fit. 15" Eaton Monster Wheels (3" backspacing) 15x8" Superior White Spoke Wheels (3.5" backspacing) 15x8 American Eagle 589s (backspacing-3.5?) The following rims DEFINITELY DO NOT work: Any American Racing 16" ANY Canadian Superior 16" Alcoa/Mickey Thompson Classic/Challenger 16" US made Mangels in the plain white boxes 8-spoke Toyota aluminum wheels from pre-91 80 Series Land Cruisers, and 86+ Pickups/4Runners I've also heard that American Racing has changed the design of their rims so most of their 15s don't fit. I'd appreciate it if people could tell me what works on their trucks with LC/Hilux disc-brake equipped axles (fit isn't nearly as much of an issue with drum brake equipped trucks) In 1989, the design of the hub was changed to be more like that of the Hilux. That meant that up to 4" of back-spacing was permissable. Since the mating surface of the hub was moved further outboard, calliper clearance was not as much of an issue. In 1992, the wheel size of LCs was changed to 16" that was to allow adequate clearance between the rims and the rear disc brakes. Fitting 15" wheels to a >1992 truck equipped with rear disc brakes requires grinding a little off the callipers. 20.0 Land Cruiser Clubs ======================= 20.1 North America ------------------ Toyota Land Cruiser Association (TLCA) PO Box 607 Placerville, CA 95667-0607 Kara Patston (Membership): KPatston@aol.com Gary Bjork (Toyota Trails Editor): TLCAEditor@aol.com Membership Services:1(800)397-3260 24hr voice/fax Chapters: This information (esp. Contacts and Phone #'s) may change fairly regularly, contact TLCA for more info. Basin & Range Cruisers 1639 East 4500 South Salt Lake City, UT 84124 Contact: Jack Christensen (801)277-6629 Beach'N'Toys 405 S Rose St. Escondido, CA 92027 Contact: Brad Phillips (619)747-1822 Capital Land Cruiser Club 45655C Woodland Rd. Sterling, VA 20166 Contact: James Asti (703)404-8115 Cascade Cruisers 10045 S. Marquam Circle Molalla, OR 97038 Contact: Peter Poling (503)642-9164 Coastal Cruisers 2360 Douglas Road Burnaby, B.C. Canada V5C 5B2 Contact: Dave Romaniuk (604)299-5600 E-contact: Rob Mullen RAMullen@wimsey.com Gold Coast Cruisers 761 Coronado Pl. Oxnard, CA 93030 Contact: Lary Moczulski (805)984-3309 Georgia Cruisers PO Box 467691 Atlanta, GA 31146 Contact: Steve Clevenger (404)446-9115 High-N-Dry Four Wheelers 9432 E. Ave. T-10 Littlerock, CA 93543 Contact: Mike Greear (805)944-3881 Keystone Cruisers, TLCA of PA 1063 E. Caracas Hershey, PA 17033 Contact: Ken Johannsen KJohannsen@aol.com Massachusetts Coastal Transit Authority 3 Federal St. Newburyport, MA 01950 Contact: Tedd Brown (508)465-6021 Mid-Ohio Land Cruisers 1791 E. Orange Rd. Lewis Center, OH 43035 Contact: Bill Scott (614)548-6214 Mountain Transit Authority PO Box 54024 San Jose, CA 95154 Contact: Bill Youngman (408)629-0949 billfj4045@aol.com Nor-Cal Marauders 13880 Noble Way Red Bluff, CA 96080 Contact: Jim Bosman (916)527-4129 Rising Sun 4 Wheel Drive Club of Colorado 4125 S. Lisbon Way Aurora, CO 80013 Contact: Chris Hatfield (303)680-1292 Toy4x4s@aol.com Southeast Land Cruiser Association 208 Reidhurst Ave. Nashville, TN 37203 Contact: Rainey Kirk (615)320-0129 Southern Nevada Land Cruisers PO Box 28004 Las Vegas, NV 89126 Contact: David Hawkins (702)452-8471 So. Cal. TLCA PO Box 1291 Sunset Beach, CA 90742 Contact: Ed Bailey (714)841-9944 Totally Landcruisers of New Jersey PO Box 114 Eatontown, NJ 07724 Contact: Al Kaplan (908)458-3413 TLCA Los Angeles County 1849 Lucretia Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90026 Contact: Bill Ferguson (213)250-4179 TLCA Ventura County (founding chapter) PO Box 367 Ventura, CA 93002 Contact: Michelle Bolton (805)647-5263 Toyotally Awesome Cruisers of Auburn PO Box 5482 Auburn, CA 95604 Contact: Marty Patton (916)268-9312 E-Contact: Jeff Hassi JHassi@aol.com Toys 4 Fun PO Box 4086 Fresno, CA 93744 Contact: Chuck Parks (209)432-9468 Toys on the Rocks PO Box 546 Placerville, CA 95667 Contact: Jerry Schroeder (916)642-0303 Virginia Land Cruiser Association 205 Bayview Dr. Yorktown, VA 23692 Contact: Bill Baxter (804)877-9136 Washington Timber Toys PO Box 2963 Woodinville, WA 98072-2963 Contact: Gordon Quehrn (206)483-3531 Windy City Land Cruisers 4741 Montgomery Ave. Downers Grove, IL 60515 Contact: Jim Today (708)968-7820 20.2 Australia -------------- Toyota Landcruiser Club of Australia (Victoria) Inc. PO Box 363 Hawthorn, Vic 3122 Toyota Landcruiser Club of Australia (SA) Inc. PO Box 55 Oaklands Park, SA 5046 Toyota LandCruiser Club of Queensland Inc. PO Box 8309 Wooloongabba, Qld 4102 bg@data3.com.au http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Clubs/Au/Qld/TLC.html Toyota Landcruiser Club of Vic, Geelong Branch PO Box 515 Geelong, Vic 3220 Toyota LandCruiser Club (NSW) PO Box 2 Bankstown, NSW 2200 rains@ozemail.com.au Toyota LandCruiser Club of W.A. P.O. Box 518 Cloverdale, W.A. 6105 20.3 Netherlands ---------------- Toyota Landcruiser Club The Netherlands c/o Jos Coppes Albionstraat 12 5809 AD Leunen the Netherlands phone: 0478-512935 (day) and: 0478-583290 (evenings) 21.0 Parts Suppliers ==================== Legend N New Parts U Used Parts C Catalog Available S Service or Custom Work V Complete Vehicles * Specialty Products 21.1 North America ------------------ Advance Adapters, Inc. N,C Engine/Transmission/TC Adapters PO Box 247 Paso Robles, CA 93447 (805)238-7000 FAX (805)238-4201 www.advanceadapter.com sales@advanceadapter.com Advanced Four Wheel Drive Systems S 1102 South 200 West Salt Lake City, UT 84101 (801)521-2334 FAX (801)521-2335 All American Enterprises 4x4 4830 N. Hwy 97 Klamath Falls, OR 97601 (541)882-5313 Aqualu Industries 3251-A Sexsmith Road Kelowna, BC Canada (604) 765-6714 FAX (604)765-6704 ARB-U.S.A.* Air Lockers, ARB bumpers, 1425 Elliott Ave. W Old Man Emu Springs, Shackles Seattle, WA 98119 (206)284-5906 FAX (206)284-6171 arbusa@halcyon.com Brown's Toyota City N New parts at wholesale 7167 Ritchie Hwy. Glen Burnie, MD 21061 1-800-848-4451 BTB Products N,U,M,S Adv. Adapters, PS Conv, Compressors 825 Civic Center Dr. #8 Springs, Disc Conv, Cages, Tire Racks Santa Clara, CA 95050 (408)984-5444 FAX (408)984-0155 btbprod@btbprod.com http://www.btbprod.com/Home.html Clifford Performance N,C 6-1 Headers, camshafts, EFI kits 2330 Pomona-Rincon Rd. Corona, CA 91720 (714)734-3310 (714)734-3405 Colorado Toyota Specialists 26366 Sutton Rd. Conifer, CO 80433 (303)838-4772 Con-Ferr N,C Bumpers, Skid Plates, Shackles, Diff 123 South Front St., Dept. FW0495 Skids, Roof Racks, Storage Boxes Burbank, CA 91502-1983 (213)849-1800, (818)848-2025,2330,6993 FAX(818)848-1011 "Cool Cruisers" of Texas V,N Sells Restored Land Cruisers, Body 101 - 5101 Grisham Drive Panels, Bolt-on Air Conditioning Rowlett (Dallas Suburb), TX 75243 **NO CATALOGS OR OTHER PARTS (214)707-8993 FAX (972)303-4600 AVAILABLE** coolfj40@gte.net http://www.coolcruisers.com Cruiser Parts 2659 Williams Hwy Grants Pass, OR 97257 (541) 479-5500 Desert Toyota N New Toyota Parts 7150 East 22nd Street Tucson, AZ, U.S.A. 85710 (520)296-8535 FAX (520)790-2900 spiketgr@aol.com Downey Off-Road Manufacturing N,C,M Tanks, Bumpers, Cams, Adapters, 10001 S. Pioneer Blvd. Clutches, Dietributors, Tops, Diffs Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (213)949-9494 FAX (213)949-5718 FabTech Manufacturing & Off Road, Inc. N,U,S,C 14ga Steel Tubs, Fenders, PS #9 - 150 Campion Rd. Conversions, Restored LC's, Kelowna, B.C. Shackle Reversal Canada V1V 1L9 (604)765-0019 FAX (604)765-1419 http://shop.info-tec.com/fabtech/ fabtech@info-tec.com Front Range Cruisers N,U Buy/Sell/Trade 2406 North Logan Ave. Colorado Springs, CO. 80907 (719)633-8178 FAX (719)475-7609 Grimes@pcisys.net Hadley Industries U,V,N,S,D 4785 Pratt Metamora, MI 48455 (810)797-4120 Interior Auto Wrecking U, V Used FJ/BJ/HJ Parts 3101 45th Ave. Vernon, B.C. Canada V1T 3N7 (604)545-2104 FAX (604)542-3335 James Toyota 172 Route 202 Flemington, NJ 08822 (908)788-5700 FAX (908)788-7887 info@toyotaoutlet.com http://www.toyotaoutlet.com Jim's Fuel Injection Service N Diesel injector service, 112-1083 East Kent Ave. Diesel fuel pump parts Vancouver, B.C. Bolt on turbo kits V5X 4V9 (604)324-1715 K & L Engineering* 6355 Smith Ave. Mira Loma, CA 91725 (714)735-4182 Land Cruiser Advanced Handling N,S Suspension Correction (Shackle 1029 S.E.24th Reversal), Springs, Spring Over Albany, OR 97321 Conversion (541)926-8122 Land Cruiser Connection N,S Restoration, Repairs, Rebuilds, Custom 45661B Woodland Road Fabrication, ARB/OME, Fibreglass Panels Sterling, VA (703) 404 8115 jasti@landcruiserconnection.com http://www.landcruiserconnection.com/ Land Cruiser Recycling N,U,V PO Box 11727 Blacksburg, VA 24060-1727 (703)961-2053 Land Cruiser Solutions Al Tubs, Grilles, Tailgates, Fenders, 20 Thornell Rd. Running Boards Newton, NH 03858 (603)382-3555 LandCruiserSolutions.Inc@worldnet.att.net Land Cruisers Unlimited U,N,S Steel 1/2 Doors, Tail Lights, Tire E. 7555 Ohio Match Road Carriers, FR/RR Discs, Bumpers Rathdrun, ID 83858 (208)687-2607 Laughing Horse Design 12205 Lockey Lane Ste 12 Auburn, CA 95602 (916)888-8200 Lou Fusz Toyota N,C New Toyota Parts, Accessories, & 10725 Mancheser St. Performance Parts St Louis, MO, 63122 1-800-325-9581(CA/US) (314)-966-5404 FUSZTOYOTA@aol.com Malotte Manufacturing Co., Inc. N,C Fibreglass tubs, tops, fenders PO Box 305 Lincoln, CA 95648 (916)645-8111 Man-A-Fre N,U,M,C 6-1 Headers, Carbs, Toyota Parts, 5076 Chesebro Rd. Rebuilt Parts, Lights, Springs, Agoura, CA 91301 Shocks, LSD's, Old Man Emu, ARB, (818)991-6689 FAX (818)991-7105 Con-Ferr Advance Adapters sysmgr@man-a-fre.com http://www.man-a-fre.com/ Mark's Off Road Enterprises N,U,D,S,M 437 N. Moss Street Burbank, CA 90501 (818)953-9230 FAX (818)953-7225 Marlins Auto & Truck Repair S Marlin Crawlers? 1543-B N. Maple Fresno, CA 93703 (209)252-1584 Nairobi Outfitters Extreme duty grillguards/winchmounts PO Box 1211 Expedition quality vehicle Goleta, Ca 93117 modifications/fabrication, tech support (805)682-7933 National Spring N Custom springs/lift kits Dept. OR 1402 N. Magnolia Ave. El Cajon, CA 92020 (619)441-1901 Northwest Off-Road Specialties N,C,F 80 Series Accessories ONLY 1999 Iowa St. Bellingham, WA 98226 (206)676-1200 FAX (206) 676-5401 Olympic Off Road N,U,S,V,D 3735 S Pine Suite E Tacoma, WA 98409 (206)473-5797 Ozone Off-Road, Inc. N,U,S,C,V Performance items, fibreglass bodies, 4623 Canyon Ridge Ln V8 conv., suspension, frame mounted Reno NV 89503 roll bars/cages Performance Products N,C 7658 Haskell Avenue Van Nuys, CA, U.S.A. 91406-2005 (800)423-3173 FAX (800)752-6196 performprod@msn.com PowerTrax/Lock Right* 245 Fischer Ave. B-4 Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (800)562-5377 FAX (714)545-5425 powertrax@aol.com Pull Pal / Premier Power Welder S P.O. Box 639 Carbondale, CO, U.S.A. 81623 (970)963-8875 FAX (970)963-8875 Ramsey Winch Co.* Winches?! :) PO Box 581510 Tulsa, OK 74158 (918)438-2760 FAX (918)438-6688 Renegade Fabrication Service or Custom Work, Specialty 18447 N. 33rd Avenue Products Phoenix, AZ, U.S.A. 85023-1050 (602) 938-3185 R&M Specialty Products* Onboard hot-water showers PO Box 1683 Windsor, CA 95492 (707)838-3869 Rocky Mountain Offroad Specialties 365 Bonny Street, Suite A Grand Junction, CO, U.S.A. 81503 (800) 524-6005 Specter Off-Road, Inc. N,U,M,C New/Used Toyota USA/NON USA Parts 21600 Nordhoff St. 3-2-1 Headers, Conn-Ferr Chatsworth, CA 91311 (818)882-1238 FAX (818)882-7144 Specterlc@aol.com http://www.sor.com/ Sterling McCall Lexus/Toyota 10422 Southwest Freeway Houston, TX, U.S.A. 77074 (713)995-2600 FAX (713)995-2695 Stevens Creek Toyota, Inc. N,S,V 4425 Stevens Creek Blvd. Santa Clara, CA 95050-7395 (408)984-1234 FAX (408)246-8028 http://www2.sctoyota.com Sun Performance Products Air compressors 17 Musick Irvine, CA, U.S.A. 92718 (714) 588-8567, Fax: (714) 588-0142 TLC Restoration and Sales S,V 14743 Oxnard Street Owner: Johnathan Ward Van Nuys, CA 91411 Restored FJ40s/60s/62s (818)785-2200 FAX (818)785-2209 http://www.tlc4x4.com/ jward@tlc4x4.com TLC Mechanix Owner: Adrian McGlaughlin N,U,S,V Power steering, disc brakes, 122 S. Lillie Lane V8 conversions, suspensions, custom Fayetteville, AR 72701 fabrication. 501-582-4TLC (4852) TLCMEX@aol.com TLC Offroad N,U,S New/Used Parts, ARB/OME, 24V bulbs, 2360 Douglas Rd. Nippondenso glow plugs Burnaby, BC Canada V5C 5B2 (604)299-5600 RAMullen@wimsey.com Toyotas "R" Us U,S 7730 CR 150 Salida, CO 81201 (719)539-7733 TPI Land Cruiser Parts And Accessories N,U 1042 Jasperson Drive Madison, TN 37115 (615)865-4499 FAX (615)860-6074 www.tpilandcruiser.com Truck Sales Co. Off-Road Center N,U,M,S,V 2211 Dickerson Road Nashville, TN 37207 (615)262-5850 Toyota Racing Development (TRD U.A.A., Inc.) 355 East Baker Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714)444-1188 1(800)688-5913 Warden's Auto Repair N,U,S,V SM420-3 SPD TC adapter kits 640 Main St. Bullet Proof CNC Milled Transfer Placerville, CA 95667 Cases (916)622-9242 FAX(909) 338-6709 W.E. For Wheel N,U PO Box 601 Crestline, CA 92325 (909)338-5120 FAX (989)338-6709 21.2 Australia -------------- Don Kyatt 4WD Parts & Accessories N,S Direct importer of spare parts, 172 Roden St. ARB Stockists West Melbourne, Vic AUSTRALIA 3003 (03)329-8200 177 Chesterville Rd. Moorabbin, Vic AUSTRALIA 3189 (03)555-0455 108 Regency Rd. Ferryden Park, SA AUSTRALIA 5010 (08)243-1966 Four Wheel Drives N,U,C Mail order world wide since 1955 304 Middleborough Rd. If it's off a four wheel drive, they've Blackburn, South Vic got it and will get it to you AUSTRALIA 3130 (03)9890-0500 FAX (03)9898-6374 fwd@fwd.com.au www.fwd.com.au Leo's Cruisers Early FJ40's and FJ55's, fibreglass body 2 Panamuna Ave panels Taylors Lakes Victoria AUSTRALIA 3038. 613 93902670 CELL 613 15 329433 Mark's Adapters 22 Sinclair Road Dandenong, Victoria AUSTRALIA 3175 (03) 9793 3388 (03) 9706 8148 marks4wd@ozemail.com.au http://www.ozemail.com.au/~marks4wd/